31 August,2024 08:54 AM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak Siddiqi
Chicken tikka zafrani
Even though it at a distance, hanging over the bar, the bright red floating paper structure, a striking artwork by renowned Dutch artist Peter Gentenaar called The Red Dancers' is the first thing that strikes you when you enter the newly revamped Gallops. It sets the tone for a space where art meets elegance, gently balancing heritage with modern sophistication.
For over three decades, the space has been more than just a restaurant - it's been a sanctuary of elegance and warmth, where every visit feels like stepping into a cherished memory of a time when dining was an art. The ace location of Mahalakshmi Race Course grounds offers a serene escape where the city's noise fades into the background, leaving only the joy of good food and great company.
Partners Jasmine Singh, Mikhail Singh and Yajush Malik are all set to welcome guests at the newly revamped Gallops Restaurant at Mahalaxmi
Then, what would one expect to change in an upgrade? After 25 years, the same architects, Vistasp Kharas Studios, have reimagined the space, carefully preserving its legacy while infusing a fresh, contemporary vibe with rich, pastel tones defining the interior.
"One of the most striking features is the meticulously restored wooden truss roof. This architectural element, a hallmark of the restaurant for years, has been given a new lease on life. The elegantly crafted stone wall further enhances the space, adding a rustic charm that perfectly complements the restaurant's overall aesthetic. And the curtains are gone," says Kharas, adding how it lets in more natural light, complimented by the soft glow of candlelight chandeliers.
The new Gallops has restored wooden trusses, soft candlelight lamps, and an equestrian-inspired bar that creates a timeless, inviting ambience
The firm's artistic director, Shreya Kharas, has curated the equestrian-themed memorabilia wall, which elegantly displays saddle leather and stirrups alongside knicknacks from the 1900s. The bar showcases Brazilian avocado marble with a rich leather finish, beautifully contrasted by walls adorned with smoked oak veneer, exuding warmth and nostalgia, crafting the perfect backdrop for a refined evening.
While the transformation of Gallops' interiors is undoubtedly impressive, the true heart of the restaurant lies in its culinary offerings. The new menu, expertly crafted by chef and partner Yajush Malik celebrates India's diverse gastronomic heritage. "The latest offerings are as impressive as their predecessors, if not more so. Some classics, such as the liver pate, are in a completely new avatar, and a few others, we have retained on the menu due to high demand," says Malik. We felt their new innovative creations, such as Goan grilled prawns (Rs 1,400) and linguini puttanesca (Rs 700), are destined to become new favourites.
HORSESHOE COASTERS
The fiery dish pairs succulent prawns with a perfectly balanced recheado masala. The heat from the chilli is tempered by the sweetness of the garlic, creating a bold and harmonious dish. The puttanesca replicated the umami flavour of anchovies using miso paste (the chef's secret that we made him reveal). Tossed with lots of garlic chilli and Roma tomatoes, capers, and olives, add that savoury goodness to this dish. Both are a perfect example of how Malik has managed to elevate classic dishes with modern techniques and ingredients.
The chicken tikka zafrani (R895) gets rich flavour from the saffron marinade and is stuffed with saffron cheese and green chillies for subtle heat. The firecracker salmon (R1,400) marinated in a fermented chilli sauce is what lends it its sharp flavours. We loved the avocado tartare (Rs 950), which had Peruvian avocado with green and cherry tomatoes served in a pull-me-up style plating, served alongside crisp Melba toast. The hero is the sauce poured on top of it, a Peruvian-inspired tiger's milk made with herbs and aromatics.
Linguine Puttanesca and Goan Grilled Prawns
The daab chingri (R1,050) is cooked with coconut water, mustard, and green chillies and served inside a coconut shell. It reminded us of Cambodian curry, but the sauce needed to be thicker. The pineapple gojju (R650) is another highlight, offering a sweet and tangy explosion of taste that is as refreshing as it is unique.
Of course, every meal at Gallops would only be complete with indulging in one of their reimagined desserts. We ended with the mango raspberry symphony (Rs 495), a beautiful combination of sweet mango mousse with a tart raspberry centre - like a mango and raspberry dolly that we used to eat in childhood. The Bailey's salted caramel cloud (Rs 495) is a decadent treat that perfectly balances the richness of Baileys with the sweetness of salted caramel - an indulgent dessert to end a meal.
Vistaap and Shreya Kharas
Complementing the culinary delights is a bar programme led by partner Mikhail Singh, featuring an array of expertly crafted cocktails. He says, "Our highlights include kesar kasturi (Rs 925), inspired by the palaces of Rajasthan. It has an infusion of saffron and spices with spirit. The real espresso martini (Rs 925) is a bold, rich blend perfect for coffee lovers. The jalapeno and guava kick, also available as a mocktail, also stands out, combining clarified guava juice with a spicy twist."
Jasmine, who co-founded the restaurant with the late Rahul Malik, reflects, "The transformation isn't just a cosmetic refresh but a carefully considered evolution that pays homage to the traditions that cemented Gallops as a cherished restaurant for generations." For us, we are glad that the restaurant is not just resting on its laurels but is committed to offering an experience as memorable and meaningful today as it was 37 years ago.
