Animal prints turn to stone at Roberto Cavalli for Milan Fashion Week

Fausto Puglisi turned his gaze to marble for his new collection at Milan Fashion Week a new twist for the flamboyant brand known for its skinbaring eyepopping stylesGone were the brands signature leopard cheetah zebra and python prints Puglisi instead transformed those intricate designs into veins of marble in compelling grey beige and white hues and even green mustard yellow and amethystI was very tired of animal print the creative director said backstage after the showZebra is 20 years agoIf the animal skins appeared to have escaped the clutch of Roberto Cavalli they reappeared Friday at Blumarine where newly named designer Walter Chiapponi opened his show with a very glam faux leopard coat and chose leopard tights as his goto accessoryMore than 50 brands are showing off FallWinter 20242025 womens collections in Milan this week attended by over 100000 fashion buyers media and brand representativesWhether on oversize puffer jackets slinky dresses trenchcoat or minis Puglisis choice to represent marble was a refreshing departure for the label sacrificing none of its flashy sexy spirit but adding a touch of Baroque decadencePuglisi said he was inspired by his personal collection of antique marbleI love it to death the Sicilian designer said of the colourful marble seen throughout Italy whether in villas of Pompeii or the Baroque churches in RomeAn inspiration board backstage included photos of St Peters Basilica in Rome and the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul both decadent in their abundant use of ancient marblePuglisi said at first he was concerned that the marble would impart a cold feel to the clothing He was proved wrongMarble is very cold but this is hot he saidBombers and bowsIf Cavalli managed to make cold hot labels Max Mara Fendi and Prada brought cozy back to the runwayRibbing and cable knits featured prominently with new riffs on sweaters by Fendis Kim Jones who saw them as modified shrugs or capes only partially covering the body but adding an extra layer of luxuryAt Max Mara creative director Ian Griffiths opened the show Thursday with the brands classic fulllength wool coat this one in navy a sophisticated moneyed lookIn a collection inspired by French writer Colette Griffiths brought sensuous volume to the backs of jackets modifying them as ultrachic bombers while decorative pinking at the hems of long coats imparted a light touchA ribbed wool band evoking a kimonos obi cinched the waist on black pants and skirts while flat panels cascading from the back of a black miniskirt were a more minimalist modern take on rufflesAt Pradas runway show Thursday models sauntered over a raised transparent floor covering grass and autumn leaves below in a show the codesigners Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons said was based on memory and historyStrips of silk satin in black pale pink or grape fluttered from the front of sleeveless shift dresses while airy transparent tunics came decorated with floral garlands in plush velvetPradas collection was marked by a fusion of mens sartorial references with lingerie and strict sharpness juxtaposed with bows and crystals said Harrods buyer Simon LonglandFeminine twinsets in contrasting colours purple and orange here pink and moss green there were paired with wool skirts past the knee with thick cuffs at the hemWhether at the shoulders waist or bodice bows peppered the collection while rich fake sable adorned the shoulders neckline and hem of cocktail dresses in ivoryThis story has been sourced from a third party syndicated feed agencies Midday accepts no responsibility or liability for its dependability trustworthiness reliability and data of the text Midday managementmiddaycom reserves the sole right to alter delete or remove without notice the content in its absolute discretion for any reason whatsoever