From Kozhukatta to Modakam: Exploring modak varieties from down South

When it comes to Ganesh Chaturthi theres a savoury element that transcends robust celebrations and thrilling pandaltripping Itrsquos the modak ndash a widely adored sweet filled with coconutjaggery stuffing and prepared through steaming or frying Known as the beloved delicacy of Ganesha devotees prepare Modaks as a religious offering to symbolise their love for the elephantheaded deityA modak comes in various forms and flavours The most traditional version native to Maharashtra is lsquoUkadiche Modakrsquo which needs no introduction A steamed dumpling made from rice flour dough filled with a mixture of grated coconut jaggery and cardamom is brimming fast as the festival arrives Yet as we journey towards the Indian Ocean we uncover inventive variations of modak flourishing in the Southern kitchensKozhukattaColette Tammeleht recalls a fond memory from her hometown when she was ten years old Back in Kochi her motherrsquos culinary creations for Vinayaka Chaturthi came with an innovative bent The delectable versions included modakshaped kozhukatta a traditional Kerala sweet dumpling made from rice flour coconut and jaggeryEnacting her motherrsquos style of cooking Tammeleht shares ldquoShe prepared the dough by mixing rice flour with hot water Once it settled she would then fill it with a mixture of shredded coconut and jaggery The dumplings were shaped like small elongated cones or halfmoons and were usually steamed Sometimes my mother would get creative and use ripe plantains or jackfruit pulp as fillingsrdquoApart from being a popular festival delicacy Kozhukatta happens to be served as an everyday snack for breakfast in Kerala households Tammelehtrsquos taste buds are stimulated as she recounts the cherished childhood memory of munching the piquant dish With ten days to go for Ganesh Chaturthi ndash she has set out to capture the same essence of modak that she inherited from her Malayalam lineageIn Kerala Kozhukatta is made during festivals like Onam and Vishu as well as during special occasions and family gatherings The filling is enriched with sesame seeds dried ginger powder and cardamom powder in addition to the classic combination of jaggery and coconutWhen it comes to ingredients and preparation theres no discernible difference between kozhukatta and modak Their distinction lies solely in their appearance While the Maharashtrian modak adopts the shape of an upturned cone kozhukatta enjoys the liberty of taking on any desired form One can choose a shape that resonates with them steam it to perfection and present it as an offering to GanapatiRecipe for KozhukattaIngredientsRice flour 1 cupA pinch of saltBoiling water 1 to 125 cupsGrated coconut 1 cupGrated or chopped jaggery 12 cupCardamom powder 14 tspA pinch of saltMethodFor the fillingHeat a pan on mediumlow heat and add the grated coconutDry roast the coconut for a few minutes until it turns slightly aromatic and light golden in colorAdd the grated or chopped jaggery and continue to cook on low heatStir continuously until the jaggery melts and combines with the coconut The mixture will become moist and stickyAdd a pinch of salt and cardamom powder Mix wellCook for a few more minutes until the mixture thickens and starts coming away from the sides of the panRemove from heat and allow it to cool Once cool shape the mixture into small lemonsized balls and set them asideFor the doughBoil 1 to 125 cups of water in a saucepan Add a pinch of saltPlace the rice flour in a mixing bowlGradually pour the boiling water over the rice flour while continuously stirring with a spoon or spatulaKeep stirring until the mixture comes together and forms a smooth dough Be careful as it will be hotOnce the dough has cooled slightly knead it gently for a few minutes to make it smooth and pliable If the dough is too dry you can sprinkle a little warm water and knead until its smoothFrying the KozhukattaiTake a small portion of the dough and roll it into a smooth ballFlatten the ball in your palm to form a small thin discPlace a coconutjaggery filling ball in the center of the discCarefully fold the edges of the disc over the filling covering it completely Pinch the edges together to sealShape the filled dough into a smooth slightly elongated or conical dumpling Repeat with the remaining dough and fillingHeat oil in a deepfrying pan over medium heatGently slide the shaped Kozhukattai into the hot oilFry until they turn golden brown and crispy turning occasionally to ensure even fryingRemove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels to remove excess oilOnce done allow the fried Kozhukattai to cool slightly before servingRecipe by Colette TammelehtModakamRani Annadurai a 37yearold home chef hailing from Tamil Nadu has a deeprooted connection to the art of making modakam also known as Vella Kozhukattai Rani like many others in her region views modakam as more than just a culinary delight For her its a symbol of devotion and tradition She shares with Midday the authentic style of preparing modakam from down southIn Tamil Nadu the making of modakam involves a meticulous process Rice flour and millet dough are skillfully blended to create the outer casing which is then filled with a rich mixture of grated coconut and jaggery known as Poornams There are two variations available for this style of modak One is steamed and the other is deepfriedWhat sets it apart from the Maharashtrian modak is the method of preparing its fillings Apart from Poornams it makes use of a harmonious blend of spices such as cardamom ginger bajra and sesame The modakams shape varies allowing for a creative touch Rani inspired by her heritage has explored innovative filling ideas over the yearsShe has experimented with additions like roasted nuts saffroninfused jaggery and even a hint of rose water injecting new flavours into this timeless tradition Moreover she has made other savoury items out of modakams with vegetables as fillings For Rani and countless others in Tamil Nadu the act of making modakam becomes a labour of love and spirituality connecting to her roots and the divineRecipe for ModakamIngredientsBajra flour 1 cupSesame seeds 14 cupA pinch of saltWater 12 cup Grated ginger 1 tspGrated jaggery 12 cupCardamom powder 14 tspGrated coconut 2 tbspMethodFor the fillingIn a mixing bowl combine the grated jaggery cardamom powder and grated coconut Mix well to form a sweet filling Set it asideFor the doughHeat a pan on mediumlow heat and dry roast the sesame seeds until they turn slightly golden and aromatic Remove them from the pan and set them asideIn the same pan dry roast the bajra flour for a few minutes until it becomes aromatic and changes colour slightly Be careful not to overroast or it may become bitterTransfer the roasted bajra flour to a mixing bowlAdd a pinch of salt and grated ginger to the bajra flourGradually add water while mixing to form a smooth pliable dough The dough should be firm enough to hold its shape but not too dryAllow the dough to cool slightlyFrying the ModakamTake a small portion of the bajra dough and roll it into a smooth ballFlatten the ball in your palm to form a small thin discPlace a small amount of the jaggery filling in the center of the discCarefully fold the edges of the disc over the filling covering it completely Pinch the edges together to sealShape the filled dough into a modak or dumpling shape You can make pleats or decorate them as desiredHeat oil in a deepfrying pan over medium heatGently slide the shaped modakam into the hot oilFry until they turn golden brown and crispy turning occasionally to ensure even fryingRemove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels to remove excess oilCool the fried Bajra and Sesame Modakam slightly before serving Enjoy your crispy and flavorful modakam as a delightful sweet treatRecipe by Rani AnnaduraiKadubuIn Karnataka a variety of modak goes by the nomenclature ndash Kadubu A delicious snack hailing from the culinary traditions of Karnataka Kadubu is relished during breakfast or as an evening treat Karnataka offers a diverse array of Kadubu varieties each with its own unique twistIn a pursuit to dig deeper we spoke to Geetanjali Sharma a Bengalurubased home chef She shares with Midday the reason behind offering modak during Vinayagar Chaturthi ldquoAccording to the Puranas ancient Hindu Sanskrit texts it is believed that when Lord Ganesha was just a baby his grandmother lovingly pampered him with delightful laddusHowever as Ganesha grew older his appetite for laddus continued to increase At one point his mother Parvati recognised that she wouldnt be able to prepare laddus quickly enough to satisfy his hunger This prompted her to come up with an alternative treat for him to relish Thus she came up with a recipe encompassing rice flour coconut jaggery and gheerdquoWhile Maharashtrian kitchens are getting stocked with modak ingredients Sharma in Karnataka is out on a spree scoring her own version of preparatory items Her innovative approach to crafting Kadubu involves utilising a mixture of rice flour and aromatic spices which are cooked in hot water to form a pliable doughThe dough is then artfully shaped and steamed resulting in a quicker and more convenient way to prepare these delectable dumplings without the traditional stuffing This streamlined method preserves the essence of Kadubus distinctive taste and texture while offering a timesaving twist on the traditional recipeOne type of Kadubu resembles modaks sporting an elongated shape ndash it entails filling rice flour dough with either sweet or savoury ingredients followed by a gentle steaming process On the other hand there are swift and straightforward renditions that involve crafting a coarse rice flour and spice mixture transforming it into a dough through hot water and subsequently shaping and steaming itKadubu with its thin steamed rice flour casing encases a flavourful and aromatic mixture of shredded coconut jaggery and cardamom creating a symphony of textures and tastes Sharma embodies the rich culinary traditions of her region while crafting kadubus The process of making these modaks has been passed down through generations in her family It is deeply rooted in Karnatakas culture and is often associated with festive occasions like Ganesh Chaturthi and family gatheringsRecipe for KadubuIngredientsRice flour 1 cupA pinch of saltBoiling water 1 to 125 cupsFinely chopped roasted almonds 12 cupGrated or chopped jaggery 14 cupCardamom powder 14 tspA pinch of saltMethodIn a mixing bowl combine the finely chopped roasted almonds grated jaggery cardamom powder and a pinch of saltMix well until the jaggery combines with the almonds and forms a crumbly sweet mixture Set asideFor the doughBoil 1 to 125 cups of water in a saucepan Add a pinch of saltPlace the rice flour in a mixing bowlGradually pour the boiling water over the rice flour while continuously stirring with a spoon or spatulaKeep stirring until the mixture comes together and forms a smooth dough Be careful as it will be hotOnce the dough has cooled slightly knead it gently for a few minutes to make it smooth and pliable If the dough is too dry you can sprinkle a little warm water and knead until its smoothFrying the KadubuTake a small portion of the dough and roll it into a smooth ballFlatten the ball in your palm to form a small thin discPlace a portion of the almond jaggery filling in the center of the discCarefully fold the edges of the disc over the filling covering it completely Pinch the edges together to sealShape the filled dough into a kadubu or dumpling shape ensuring it is well sealedPrepare a steamer by greasing the steamer plate or tray lightly with oilArrange the shaped kadubu on the greased plate leaving some space between them to expand while steamingSteam the kadubu for about 1520 minutes on medium heat or until they become translucent and firm to touchOnce done serve the AlmondStuffed Kadubu when It has cooled offRecipe by Geetanjali SharmaModak reinventedEvery year Bhumika Bhurani the visionary behind Hot Mama Bakes comes up exciting take on modaks This year she proudly presents her innovative twist on the classic fried version She emphasises that the delightful textures remain faithful to tradition boasting a crispy exterior and a soft delectable interior These unique modaks come in two varieties Chocolate fudge and Khajoor fillingsCost Rs 150 for five Rs 300 for 11 pieces Rs 550 for 21 piecesCall 9833739961 orders close by September 15