From the list of walks to preview from Alliance Francaise’s series of Heritage Walks across Mumbai, my choice was one that snaked though the corridors of the Lalbaug Industrial Estate. I had referred to my tour guide for the walk by a slew of names that ranged from the Stark-ian Sansa to the bizarre Shahenshah.

It was only when I pulled the oldest trick in a journalist’s book — “Could you please tell me how to spell that?” — was when I realised her name was actually Sancia Sequeira. Sequeira is a Government of India tour guide, middle-aged, extremely genial and very popular amongst the locals. Her ability to make any part of the sprawling market seem like the backyard of her own house was uncanny. “It is not me,” she says, “These people are genuinely warm. Where else will you find a dargah located right next to a Hindu wedding hall?”

The spot she is referring to is at the crowded entrance of the estate, known as Chivda Gully, which used to be the hub of tamasha, an indigenous form of Marathi theatre several years ago. The eponymously named lane is replete with stores attached to kitchens manufacturing an assorted variety of pressed rice.

We pass by a host of general stores that Sequeira tells me, switch to aggressively selling a mixed bag of temple ware and incense sticks during the festive season. The Ganesha Gully, which leads to a shuttered area, shuttered by asbestos is the hub of spices, selling freshly ground flavourings. There are shops specialising in strainers, sweets, knives, dried fish and manure, operating in the vicinity for at least 30 years or more. She then walks us through to the fish and meat market thronged by a variety of customers.