“There are only 30 of us left in Calcutta. And to think, there were 3,000 in the 1940s and 50s!” sighs Jael Silliman. The archivist, writer, and former expert and professor on women’s affairs, is in Mumbai for a couple of reasons. Soaking in the sights and sounds during our walk around buzzing Flora Fountain she remarks how the city appears cleaner since her previous visit, nine months back. “Is it because of the rains?” she asks. I smile. Positive feedback from visitors is alwayswelcome.

The main hall of the Maghen David Synagogue. It is considered to be the biggest synagogue in Asia. Pics Courtesy/ Jael Silliman