Dum hai?

Updated On: 17 October, 2020 07:45 AM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak Siddiqi

Jaffer Gulam Mansuris passing has left a vacuum among the custodians of the authentic biryani in Mumbai. Meet those who are keeping its legacy alive

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Jaffer Bhai at work in the kitchen

These days, the biryani has been enjoying its time in the spotlight with cloud kitchens and biryani chains springing up in the city. While its history remains debatable, this one dish (in all its regional variants) is a national favourite. The deliciously complex amalgamation of flavours and spices cooked on dum in a large sealed pot, allowing the steam to work its magic and tenderise the meat in its own juices while flavouring the rice, is what heightens the experience. The perfect biryani calls for meticulously measured ingredients and a technique that requires skill and mastery that's been perfected by these culinary stalwarts.

King is king

Eight years ago, at the green lawns of Islam Gymkhana at Marine Lines, this writer sat burying her face in her hands disappointed with their in-house caterer. One goes to a Muslim wedding only for the biryani, and his was a disaster. Outside caterers weren't allowed and the bridezilla in us was getting impatient. On our way out, a man walked up to us and said, "Only Jaffer Bhai Mansuri can break this clout. They can't refuse him." The Gymkhana office confirmed it was true. Barely 20 days before the wedding, we booked an appointment with him at his central kitchen at Noor Baugh in Dongri in the hope that he won't disappoint us.

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