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Mumbai Food: South Mumbai eatery revamps, but sticks to African roots

A SoBo eatery has reinvented itself without compromising on its core competency - African cuisine

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Chicken egusi with fufu. Pic/Bipin Kokate

Chicken egusi with fufu. Pic/Bipin Kokate

The first page of the menu lists small dishes like chicken hot dog. Skip. The second page has everyday pizzas and pastas. Repeat skip. The third page is Indian, with minimalist thalis and curry dishes. Skip again. And then suddenly our eyes widen. The fourth, fifth and sixth pages are under the title, "African menu". They have items like jollof rice, pottage, fufu and chicken egusi, all of which read like Greek to us at least. We have never had food from that continent before. But we have always wanted to. And now here we are, sitting in the unlikeliest of places — The Beat House, a café in the same building as Hotel Sapna Marine beside Gol Masjid, next to the iconic Jaffer Bhai's and Sassanian Boulangerie — feeling as clueless about our order as a three-year-old given a pure math problem.

So, we do the easiest thing we can think of. We flip out our phone and Wikipedia the dishes. Jollof, it turns out, "is a one-pot rice dish popular in many West African countries". Sounds good to us. Egusi, meanwhile, are "the seeds of certain cucurbitaceous plants that are dried and ground and used as an ingredient for soups". That sounds suitably African, too. And for starters, we ask for a fried chicken, curious to see how different it is from other variants of a dish that's ubiquitous around the world, before adding a mint ice tea (Rs 120) to the equation to wash it all down with.

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