National Curry Week: Are curries different in India and the UK?

This week as the UK celebrates its 24th National Curry Week and 200th year of Indian restaurants in the country we walk down the food history lane to deepdive into the debate over its origins and connection with the home country Food historian Pushpesh Pant says trying to define curry is a futile experience ldquoWhy canrsquot we be content with the reality that curry exists It may well have been created by the British during the Raj but it has survived over centuries One doesnrsquot have to trace the lineage to a swadeshi dish predating the arrival of the firangi Researchers may take us back to the original Tamil kari that gives curry its name but I am reminded of Gertrude Steinrsquos famous words ldquoA rose is a rose is a roserdquo he explains adding that there is mutton curry with no frills homestyle or railwaydak bungalow mutton curry Ditto for chicken fish and egg dishesSahib ki NiharildquoItrsquos true that we have Indianised the AngloIndian recipes The foreigners simplified spicing by inventing the curry powder akin to our aromatic garam masala Curries have little in common with qorma salan rogan josh or dopyazardquo Pant elaborates Goan and Mangalorean fish curries have a distinct identity that separates them from Delhi ishtoo or the Kerala stew that imbibes foreign culinary influences Professional food writers like any scholarly community thrives on specialised jargons and hairsplitting he believesPushpesh Pant and Rohit GhaildquoThis is what keeps the pot boiling All cuisines are multilayered and spicing varies greatly even in India a country of subcontinental dimensions and ethnic variety Kashmiris prefer dried ginger fennel asafoetida and their own chillies while Lucknowi preparations lay great emphasis on aromatics like star anise green cardamom saffron lichens and cloves cinnamon and so on One canrsquot generalise the spicing of Indian curries Of course Indian curries have influenced Thai Malaysian and even Japanese curriesrdquo he summarisesChicken Khasi curryWe move to ground zero in the UK where Rohit Ghai chef owner at Kutir in Chelsea and Manthan in Mayfair feels that the London food scene evolves every year ldquoOne year we were crazy about gastronomic preparations while the next year we wanted to trace our food to the roots Curry nights are a popular weekend plan hererdquo he shares In his kitchens he prepares fish in different ways including the Bengali machher jhol Kerala mapas and the Alleppey curry style Usually the fish is cooked with the sauce To take it a notch higher I make the sauce separately and add it to pan seared fish Here classic flavours work best but the presentation game has to be strongrdquo informs Ghai whose restaurant Kutir won the best restaurant in London at the British Restaurant Awards last weekGet your curry fixgtgt PlantainThis curry is served as a banana stew with coconut milk and a secret spice blend It also has a morning glorywater spinach salad that is served with a sweet and sour tamarind dressing and a curry leaf tempering on a generous dollop of sour creme freshAt Ekaa Kitab Mahal Dr DN RoadTime 1230 pm to 330 pm 7 pm to 12 pmCall 9987657989Cost Rs 650gtgt Chicken Khasi curryTry this rustic black sesame and chilli curry version inspired from Khasi ranges and Khasi tribe of MeghalayaAt Tresind Mumbai BKC Time 12 pm to 4 pm 7 pm to 12 amCall 8928000057Cost Rs 4200gtgt Nihari and paneer tikkaThe lamb Sahib ki nihari R1650 is an Awadhi curry of tender lamb shanks simmered overnight cooked in a home blend of 32 traditional Indian spices like the fragrant khus ki jad and paan ki jad Vegetarians can savour the Paneer tikka masala R1050 a rich flavourful recipe of tender cottage cheese that incorporates an onion and tomato curry with warm spicesAt The Sahib Room amp Kipling Bar St Regis Lower ParelTime 12 pm to 3 pm 7pm to 12 am Call 9867822715gtgt MumbaiIshtyleMohammed Ali Road and Bhendi Bazaar have some iconic spots that offer robust desi fare Some of the popular favourites include murg massalam mutton korma mutton nalli nihari made Bombaystyle at Shalimar 69098888 Chinese N Grill 23456529 is known for Shahi nalli nihari while Noor Mohammadirsquos 23456008 chicken korma and Chicken Sanju Baba are musthavesgtgt Fish curry and salansFrom prawns masala Goan prawnsfish curry to a rawas tikka in a tikka masala or the chicken badami comes in an almond sauce this landmark is one of the originals for Indian curries They serve vegetarian options tooAt Khyber Kala GhodaTime 1230 pm to 12 amCall 40396666Cost Rs 595 onwardsgtgt Madras railway curryHave this AngloIndian coconut onions and tomatobased preparation with egg meat or paneerAt Tanjore Tiffin Room Versova and BandraTime 12 noon to 1 am Call 9167115075Cost Rs 350 to Rs 575Trami chickenIngredientsgtgt 250 gm boneless chickengtgt frac12 cup plain yogurtgtgt frac12 tbsp minced garlicgtgt frac12 tbsp minced gingergtgt frac12 tsp gram masalagtgt frac12 tsp red chilli pastegtgt frac12 tsp coriander powdergtgt 1 tsp saltFor the Trami gravygtgt 3 tomatoes choppedgtgt 1 tsp gingergarlic pastegtgt 2 tbsp of caramelised onionsgtgt 1 tsp kasuri methigtgt 1 tsp garam masalagtgt 1 tsp coriander powdergtgt 1 tbsp desi gheegtgt 1 green chilli choppedMethodFor the chicken mix all the ingredients in a bowl with the chicken and marinate for 30 minutes In a pan or a pot chargrill the chicken For the sauce sauteacute gingergarlic paste green chillies and onions in ghee Add garam masala and coriander powder and cook for two minutes Add the chopped tomatoes and cook for 1520 minutes Add a little bit of stock to the mix to thin it out and then blend this paste in a mixer Add the chicken and slow cook for 10 minutesThe Punjabi AddaPritam da Dhaba in Dadar known as the birthplace of butter chicken in Mumbai is set to open its second outpost after 80 years in Juhu Present generation owner Jaibir Singh Kohli director Pritam Group of Hotels and Restaurants says ldquoIndians love to dunk their rotis in gravy In the South curries are prepared in such a manner that they can be consumed with rice Our kitchen offers lesser known Punjabi dishes like the Punjabi kadi pakodi which is not recognised as curry Trami chicken is like Chicken tikka masala that became the UKrsquos national dish We make it in a more traditional wayrdquoThe Guidersquos OG Picksgtgt Mutton rogan joshAt Kebab Korner Intercontinental Marine DriveCall 66399855gtgt Manga charuAt Dakshin Coastal ITC Maratha Chakala Andheri EastCall 28303030gtgt Benaras Malai KoftaAt Copper Chimney WorliCall 7045525415