A generous grating of a milky white cube of Amul cheese on an omelette or sandwich had to be well-earned in this writer’s home when she was growing up. Mozzarella, our mother had us believe, was exotic — to be saved for home-style pizzas primarily, following a good report card, of course. So, a few years ago, when we stumbled upon cheesemaker and consultant Aditya Raghavan’s adventures with the Indian mozzarella — kalari from Jammu and Kashmir — we were intrigued. Like the kalari, Raghavan will introduce cheese-lovers to other traditional cheeses from India’s dairy-scape, halting to taste specialities from across the country, at a session curated by The Locavore this week.

Smoked Bandel cheese at New Market, Kolkata