Bharat ExcellenSea's years old menu to get a new twist under a veteran chef

Seated inside Bharat ExcellenSea the 34yearold iconic seafood restaurant on Shahid Bhagat Singh Road curious pedestriansrsquo reactions as they peer through the French windows the freshlydone beige facade as well as the new logo makes for interesting viewingButter garlic lobsterBallard Estate has stirred up the cityrsquos FampB map first with The Clearing House in 2017 and last year with IFBE adding to the buzz The interiors are a hat tip to Mumbairsquos sea connection a cobalt blue wall displays a massive map of Mumbai while porcelain sea creatures swarm on the other A live crab tank in a corner tells you that they mean business There are caricatured scenes from a Mumbai local whitewashed brick walls and comfortable seating A stairway leads to the mezzanine alcove with ornamental fish tanks for decorSeafood biryaniWe are here to chat about veteran chef Ananda Solomon and seafood restaurant owner Suraj Salianrsquos collaboration Salian calls it a marriage of the past and future with due respect to classic flavours Chef Ananda is an institution With him helming the kitchen we want to make it a panIndian and global brand A Thai restaurant is also in the offingrdquo he revealsLike old timesFor Salian it is a renewal of the vow he made when he started Bharat ExcellenSea in 1989 To run a seafood restaurant that focused on the dayrsquos freshest catch great quality and service He recalls heading to the wharfs by 430 am every day to snap up rare kapri pomfret set aside for export as well as the flat surmai that was unavailable for local consumption Salian would personally take orders and recommend dishes to each table House favourites included neer dosa Mangaloreanstyle bangda pullimunchi chicken and mutton sukka gassis and balchao that remain on the menuSurmai tawa fryThe restaurant was a favourite with consulate staff from 530 pm to 8 pm it would be packed with early diners Bollywood Alisters like Pooja Bhatt and Bobby Deol were regulars Now with Solomon on board the menu expands Apart from the Konkan there are hints of Far East Asian and European influences too For Salian it is a family affair wife Chitra works alongside son Shravan is studying at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris while daughter Shrishti is focused on drawing newage patronsFare playChef Solomonrsquos craft is on display Chilled sol kadhi mdash the kokum cools us down and prepares us for an elaborate deepsea dive Tangy crab meat Rs 375 uses a monsooninfluenced East Indian recipe that includes raw mango The spices donrsquot hit the throat curtailing the light fiery torch within the palate gates This makes way for a Mangalorean favourite lady finger kane bound with a crispy semolina crust Surmai tawa fry Rs 650 has a semiwet red masala paste freshlyprepared by Solomon for the day The classic meen pollichathu Rs 700 is wrapped in a banana leaf which lends the pomfret its sweetnessMeen pollichattuThe main flavours are a tamarind variety called jarige puli and byadagi chillies from Karnataka The sourness doesnrsquot grind our teeth but leaves a lingering citrusy aftertaste The butter garlic pepper lobster Rs 1200 exudes a European vibe The white meat butter and garlic are cooked to perfection Solomonrsquos stamp also surfaces in the shrimp cocktail Rs 450 a luxuriant creamy tipple The seafood biryani Rs 700 pays homage to a Keralite preparation and is packed with shrimps calamari prawns and fish spiced with cumin pepper and cinnamon that deserves extra helpings Solomonrsquos wizardry brings simplicity and regional flair to the fore while keeping traditional sensibilities intactJust fivestar thingsThe chef joins us for a chat only after he has fed us well As he wipes the sweat off his face there is an aftershift glow At 64 he is raring to go ldquoSouth Bombay and the Bombay 1 pin code have a special place in my heart Everything I have ever achieved in my career has been from hererdquo he tells us laughing off the idea of retiring to his seaside village in Mangalore ldquoI have always wanted to but I donrsquot think I am meant for itrdquo he remarksCrab soup PicsAishwarya DeodharA career that began with The Oberoi and flourished with the Taj Group for 25 years during which he set up the cityrsquos first Thai restaurant Thai Pavilion at Taj President along with The Konkan Cafe and Trattoria the first coffee shop to offer Italian fare In 2016 he left to take up international projects returning with Thai Naam at The Orb in Andheri in 2020 ldquoMy cooking is focused only on winning peoplersquos hearts through their stomachs This partnership is my attempt to create a nuanced offering in the midsection where I can showcase my skillsrdquo he sharesTo execute this vision he handpicked experienced talent ldquoMost of my chefs are between 50 and 65 years Our veterans have junior chefs training under themrdquo he reveals Solomon gets pensive about his early days ldquoDad always said lsquoHard work pays offrsquo I have held on to this advice I was studying at IHM Dadar while simultaneously training at The Oberoi We reported to the kitchen at 8 am until noonThe restaurant is spread across two floors and seats 114 guestsThen till 4 pm we were assigned in the restaurant I would then rush to attend classes and return at 6 pm for kitchen duty If I missed my 110 am train I would sleep on roadside benches with my North Star shoes as a pillowrdquo he recalls The difference of working here Solomon points out is that you have to do everything on your own ldquoI am aggressive with myself I donrsquot like putting up boundaries We are born to do thingsrdquoAt Bharat House 317 Shahid Bhagat Singh Road Ballard EstateCall 31985115