Every year, between August and September, Malayalis across the world are busy frying up batches of banana chips, simmering payasam and churning out erissery, avial, thoran, pachadi and dozens of other delicacies for a single meal — the grand Onam sadhya. Celebrated to welcome the homecoming of the mythical king Mahabali, Onam is characterised by the mammoth sadhya, which brings friends and family together. Home chef Ashwin Nair, who runs the delivery venture Aiyo, Patrao! with his wife Marian Dcosta, remembers being part of potluck sadhyas while spending the holidays in North Paravur. “The potluck is actually what’s usually practised in most Malayali households to share the load and bond over a celebratory meal. As I grew older, helping Amma prepare her side of the sadhya, as her sous chef, was exciting. This sparked off my love for food,” he reminisces. 

Marian Dcosta and Ashwin Nair. Pics/Anurag Ahire