A new pop-up menu in Mumbai showcases Ladakh's ingredients through Thai food

Itrsquos ironic that most touristsrsquo posts on the gram from Ladakh include a photo of them slurping soupy instant noodles with a backdrop of its gorgeously rugged terrain Ladakh is home to ingredients unique to its landscape resulting in the development of a cuisine that is lesserknown to many To shine a light on this Rigzin Lachic founded Tsas by Dolkhar The plantbased innovative restaurant will be moving out of their home in Leh to showcase its expertise in a collaboration with Mumbairsquos Nara ThaiChef Kalpesh Jadhav prepares green soupLocal is coolldquoIrsquom from Leh but I never lived there until 2017 I didnrsquot grow up in the region but I would visit my grandparents in the summer holidays I studied in Ooty and later worked in Japan as a game developer and eventually with a startup in Delhi after which I moved to Ladakhrdquo shares Lachic who has been running The Dolkhar a sevenvilla boutique hotel in Leh since last April It is set in a picturesque apple and apricot orchard owned by her grandmotherAmuse BoucheShe was keen to live and work in Ladakh and realised that 60 to 70 per cent of the regionrsquos economy is driven by tourism ldquoI wanted to conceptualise an idea that would create a positive impact on the community and the environmentrdquo Her philosophy of lsquocommunity firstrsquo is reflected in the idea of the property that is built with natural materials like mud wood and stone traditional techniques of construction are used while artworks and accessories from local artisans don the interiorsWatermelon CevicheThe same philosophy extends to the fare served at Tsas by Dolkhar the restaurant housed within the property Tsas kitchen garden in Ladakhi ldquoTo preserve anything from the past we have to also move forward without entirely abandoning the past Local ingredients are at the centre of all our recipes it could be a European or Japanese dish We want to showcase Ladakhi produce on the world map The terrain altitude and climatic conditions are unique and that allows many ingredients to grow here mdash many of them in the wildrdquo she sharesRigzin LachicBasking in the spotlightSome Ladakhi ingredients like sea buckthorn and apricots recently gained popularity but many others remain lesser known ldquoApple and apricot are the major fruit trees While multiple varieties of apricots grow across Ladakh one type the Raktsey Karpo has received the GI Geographical Indications tag for the worldrsquos sweetest apricotsrdquo Lachic reveals ldquoThe grains staple to Ladakh are buckwheat and barley Plants like wild garlic chives rhubarb wild caraway wild nettle and capers are traditionally foraged and used as ingredientsrdquoUdai PinnaliAccording to Lachic even with common ingredients like tomatoes there is a difference ldquoIf you taste the tomatoes that grow in the Brokpa or Aryan Valley which are at a lower altitude than Leh yoursquoll realise that the flavour differs from those grown anywhere else in the world We used sundried tomatoes and they change the dishrsquos taste completelyrdquo About introducing these ingredients to Mumbairsquos foodies she says ldquoA large part of traditional Ladakhi culinary practices revolve around preserving food for the harsh winter This includes sundrying and pickling Some ingredients we bring here will also be in these forms Only recently have we started getting access to ingredients from the plains and vegetables all year roundrdquoFare callThe idea behind the popup was to elevate perceptions of Ladakhi and Thai cuisine ldquoThe fundamental idea of promoting regional and local cuisine is what the team of Tsas and Nara Thai have in common The approach that the Tsas team has taken by deepdiving and understanding Thai cuisine and how best the ingredients that they bring in fit into how we approach food has been refreshing and exciting for us Itrsquos not a mishmash or a quick plugandplay idea but one that stays true to the ethos of both cuisinesrdquo says Udai Pinnali CEO of Aditya Birla New Age Hospitality Nara Thai India adding that the concept was to bring the flavours of the coast and the mountains togetherldquoThe ingredients combined beautifully to offer the right amount of umami sweet and sour flavoursrdquo shares Kalpesh Jadhav head chef Tsas by Dolkhar who has cocreated the menu with chef Prem Pradhan of Nara Thai From the amusebouche which is rice paper dumplings with fen noodles to green soup with coconut and apricot kernel foam and a sea buckthorn chocolate tart for dessert the menu holds many surprises ldquoWe are making a red curry and coconut oil cured burnt watermelon ceviche using the Ladakhi watermelon which is the size of onersquos palmSince it is organically grown it has a natural sweetness and earthiness We are curing it with red curry and coconut When these three flavours combine it creates a dance on the palate We are also making a bao using jackfruit for the filling which has a similar texture to pulled pork In the large plates we are making a Ladakhi gnocchi with our take on the Tibetan fried bread which is made using apricotsrdquo says JadhavBeyond the obviousSince itrsquos the first time that Tsas is moving outside Ladakh Lachic believes the benefits of this popup will be multifold ldquoIt will be a great experience for our team to realise where these ingredients stand and offer us a fresh perspective Such popups also have a positive impact on the lifestyle of the Ladakhis We were once a selfsustained agrarian community but wersquove witnessed a shift Traditional practices including agricultural ones are dying as they are linked to the demand for resources and local ingredients With globalisation Ladakh has better access to ingredients from the rest of the world Shining the light on them will also hopefully impact the agricultural practices of the region Ladakh which has been sidelined for long is now getting the limelight it deservesrdquoOn December 2 and December 3 12 pm lunch 730 pm dinnerAt Nara Thai Amar Chand Mansion ColabaCall 8355878888Cost Rs 1500 per person