Spices of Tamil Nadu: A flavourful roundtable on Tamilian cuisine

Among the many pet peeves this writer can be accused of one is the assumption that South Indians are largely vegetarian ldquoI get irked when people confuse Tamil cuisine with Kerala or Malabari cuisinerdquo shares chef Reshma Mane The founder of Every Aroma and Vannu Tinnuka Mane is hoping to change this assumption with her popup titled A Bellyful of Chennai that brings to the table the meaty flavours of Dindigul and Ambur biryani with mutton rasam quail and other dishesMutton urundai mutton ballsand mutton biryanildquoI had decided early on last year that I would explore more flavours in this countryrdquo she shares For 2025 she decided to head to Chennai on the east coast of Tamil Nadu However Mane did not want to focus on the vegetarian variations ldquoMany people in the North associate South Indian food with the basic idli and sambar variations To some extent they might be familiar with Keralabased cuisine But there is such a vast difference Moreover the city is a microcosm of Tamil food quite like Mumbai isrdquo she explains Hence Mane opted to keep this exploration focused on the nonvegetarian delightsVanjaram fry at Marina BeachDescribing her own experience on the famed Marina Beach Mane says ldquoIn the midst of Pongal holidays I was lucky to be taken to the seafood stalls at the end of the Beach Prepared by local fishermen the viral meen snakehead murrel is so delicate flaky and deliciousrdquoAmbur biryaniAmong the dishes on the popup menu are Chettinad fish fry mutton urundai mutton balls inspired from her past trips to Madurai chicken sukka parotta and of course the Dindigul and Ambur biryani ldquoUnlike other parts of the country in Tamil Nadu they use the seeraga samba rice mdash not basmati or kollam It retains the flavours and the moist factor of the meatrdquo she elaborates Over the last few years Mane has sought out culinary experiences from the region From travelling to Madurai and sampling its mess food in 2022 to trying the Dindigul biryani the regionrsquos flavours and cultures have intrigued herldquoI think Chettinad cuisine is often termed universally as spicy But it is not so It is the nuance of using their spices and reasons that make it interesting The coastal regions use spice as a way to balance the heatrdquo This has also put in motion her plans for the next trip mdash Hyderabad The popup also hopes to bring to the table more than just the dishes Mane promises a touch of the traditional banana leaf plates as well as lsquoChennairsquo messstyle service ldquoThat is the surpriserdquo she promisesON February 9 1230 pm to 230 pmAT The Little House Yari Road Versova Andheri WestCALL 9819875010 for reservations limited seatsCOST Rs 2000Chicken pallipalayamTracing its roots to the Kongu region the chicken pallipalayam is a simple dish that can be quickly put together with spices shallots coconuts and chickenINGREDIENTSgtgt 250 gms chicken bonelessgtgt 14 cup ginger crushedgtgt 14 cup garlic crushedgtgt 14 cup curry leavesgtgt 14 cup fresh coconut slices smallgtgt 2 tsp mustard seedsgtgt 2 tsp cumin seedsgtgt 12 cup Madras onionsgtgt 1 tsp turmeric powdergtgt 14 cup dry red chilli roughly choppedgtgt Fresh coriander leavesgtgt Salt to tastegtgt Oil for sauteacuteMETHODWash the chicken and keep aside for a bit In a pan heat oil Add mustard seeds cumin seeds half curry leaves crushed ginger crushed garlic and sauteacute Add some Madras onions and fry till they are soft and golden Mix in turmeric powder red chilli pieces and fresh coriander To this add the chicken pieces and fry well Sprinkle a little water if needed Add salt to taste and cover the mix for 4 to 5 minutes Once the chicken is done add in fresh coconut slices Mix well and let the water dry Make sure the chicken is coated on all sides Add remaining curry leaves and serve hotPrawns thokkuA simple Chettinad stir fry dish the prawns thokku is a quick fix side dish for any good dinner and is often kept handy as a ready mix for every occasionINGREDIENTSgtgt 250 gms prawns smallmediumgtgt 14 cup crushed gingergtgt 14 cup crushed garlicgtgt 14 cup curry leavesgtgt 14 cup tomatoes choppedgtgt 2 tsp mustard seedsgtgt 2 tsp cumin seedsgtgt 1 inch cinnamon stickgtgt 34 clovesgtgt 1 cup Madras onions choppedgtgt 1 tsp turmeric powdergtgt 2 tsp red chilli powdergtgt 1 tsp fennel powdergtgt 1 tsp garam masala powdergtgt Fresh coriander leavesgtgt Salt to taste gtgt OilMETHODWash the prawns well and keep aside In a pan add some oil and sauteacute mustard seeds cumin seeds cinnamon cloves some curry leaves crushed ginger and garlic To this add Madras onions and tomatoes Fry until they are soft and brown Mix in turmeric powder red chilli powder fennel powder and fresh coriander Throw in the pieces of prawn and fry well Add water if necessary Sprinkle salt as per taste Let the curry simmer under a lit for 4 to 5 minutes before adding garam masala powder and mix well Ensure that the curry has a semidry consistency When it is ready garnish with the remaining curry leaves and serveRecipes courtesy Reshma ManeLog on to everyaroma