Walk into Café Colony Stores and Restaurant near Dadar TT, and you’re sure to spot elements from an Irani café — wooden furniture, brun pav loaves, glass jars with khari biscuits, home provisions in glass cabinets, and a white-haired Irani gentleman rattling off orders from behind the counter. But the surprise here is the sight of two young women or a young man who take turns to run the show.

Agha Nazariyan with son Mirza at the counter of Café Colony. Pics/Dhara Vora