From a time when Japanese flavours were largely unfamiliar, to the current era of the democratisation of sushi, chef Masaharu Morimoto continues to lead the Japanese culinary innovation and tradition in India
Musk melon brandy jelly
When chef Masaharu Morimoto made the bold move to leave Nobu and establish his own restaurant, Morimoto, in 1999, it was a turning point in the culinary world. He brought the refined techniques he had honed at Nobu but with a flair for even fancier presentations, incorporating elements like caviar and salmon roe. And yet, only a few had heard of this ‘Iron Chef’ in India. When he partnered with The Taj Mahal Palace in Mumbai to launch Wasabi in 2004, a pivotal moment in Indian fine dining was created, firmly establishing Japanese cuisine in the city’s culinary scene.
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The launch was a social event that attracted Mumbai’s elite. Signature dishes like oysters, sea urchins, and foie gras, featured on Wasabi’s initial menu in Mumbai, are still remembered with honest fondness. Dishes like lobster masala, inspired by Indian flavours, showcased his commitment to blending traditional Japanese techniques with local influences. Surprisingly, they have also been a hit at his New York Restaurant.
Mizuhiki salad
To celebrate Wasabi by Morimoto’s 20th anniversary, chef Morimoto hit the rewind button, sharing personal reflections with this writer in an e-mail conversation before he hit Mumbai’s shores for a private event. He spoke about his journey from introducing Japanese cuisine to becoming a cornerstone of the city’s culinary scene, his personal evolution, and his experiences in India, expressing, “Every time I visit Wasabi, I admire the growth journey. When we first opened, we were slowly introducing Japanese cuisine to Mumbai.
Over time, we blended in elements of various global cuisines to cater to the local flavours, particularly vegetarian diets, all while preserving authentic Japanese flavours. It makes one wonder how cuisines can adapt and thrive in different cultures. Now, we have become a beloved part of Mumbai’s dining scene and it fills me with pride and gratitude — the journey to get here has been incredible. My aim was always to introduce Indian diners to the essence of Japanese food — not just the flavours but the philosophy behind it, where each dish respects the ingredients and techniques.”
Bocchan kabocha croquette
Reflecting on the journey, Morimoto observes how the city has evolved alongside Wasabi, with Indian diners embracing the shared respect for ingredients — a cornerstone of Japanese culinary tradition. “They’ve come to value the importance of seasoning and the delicate balance of flavours in Japanese cuisine,” he notes. “The art of sushi-making and presentation also strikes a chord with Indian diners, as both cultures emphasise the visual appeal of food.”
Morimoto strongly believes that maintaining a balance between tradition and innovation is all about respecting classic techniques but not being afraid to think outside the box. This philosophy is what keeps the culinary experience at Wasabi fresh and exciting. “I like to make my dishes with traditional Japanese flavours, but I also want to add elements of India’s rich culinary palate, sourcing the freshest ingredients while honouring the flavorful essence of Japan and mixing it with global influences. We remain devoted to introducing our guests to unique new experiences and refreshing our menus is an ongoing commitment, and you’ll have to stay tuned to see what we have in store.
Masaharu Morimoto
Giving us a peek into the menu, he says, “We are introducing mizuhiki salad, which I had served at the White House gala dinner. It’s like unwrapping a garden on a plate. We have kinmedai soup, a clear flavorful broth. Chilean sea bass cooked on robata with yuzu kosho ponzu sauce. Additionally, we are introducing seasonal vegetables and fruits. The dishes will change according to availability, but we know the guests will look forward to it.”
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