Chef Virgilio Martinez of Central, which ranked No 1 on the World’s Best Restaurant list in 2023, gives Mumbai a taste of Peruvian biodiversity in a pop-up that ends today
Sections of the menu from Central restaurant in Lima, Peru
Chef Virgilio Martinez wears a calm demeanour in a crowd. It instantly draws one in as he begins to narrate the story of his fine-dine cooking that begins with sourcing ingredients from the local biodiversity of Peruvian altitudes across regions from the Andes mountains to the Amazon forest.
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In 2023, his restaurant, Central in Lima, Peru was ranked No 1 in the World’s Best Restaurant List. Masters of Marriott Bonvoy and Culinary Culture have brought the 47-year-old Peruvian for a two-day pop-up at Koishii, The St. Regis Mumbai. Within the first 24 hours of landing in Mumbai, Martinez has eaten seafood at Trishna, and Gujarati delicacies at Soam; he even visited the spice market in Lalbaug.
His food journey is captured in a soon-to-release documentary titled Virgilio. It traces his quest to source and study Peruvian ingredients, from cacao farms to corn grown on altitudes as high as 4,000 m, along with his sister Malena Martinez and wife Pia Leo. The trio has shaped the philosophy behind Central, MIL in Cuzco that offers a taste of Inca food and cultural history and research centre Mater Iniciativa (Initiative).
“Peruvian and Indian cuisines share the culture of living with flavour,” he says, adding, “In a market, there is the chaos of information — smells, flavours, textures; each ingredient fighting for attention. The end experience is a balance of the harmony one creates with them,” Martinez elaborates.
No prize for guessing his comfort food: Peruvian ceviche. Edited excerpts from the interview:
Your thoughts on Central ranking No 1 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurant list, 2023.
This happened over [by following] a discipline of 15 years, not overnight. My motivation is to discover the unknown and share it with the world. Winning has opened new doors — to see the world, learn from it, and cook for more people.
Peruvian chef Virgilio Martinez. Pic Courtesy/Getty Images
Does your approach to cooking change when you cook in another country?
I listen and I learn. I keep an open mind for 50 per cent changes. The idea is to get in touch with humanity; that is important. I have brought a variety of quinoa, cacao from Amazon, and root vegetables. I will be using Indian spices and chillies I picked up from the local markets. On the Mumbai menu, there is a dish called Extreme Altitude that has Peruvian corn from over 4,000 m, paired with quinoa.
The word ‘restaurant’ doesn’t seem to define your work…
We are thinking beyond gastronomy, and instead working with different fields of understanding life and nature. This has a huge transformation in our work. We say we are cooking an ecosystem, but we are also creating our own ecosystem. We have the opportunity to redefine fine dining. It is a privilege to be on top of something and try to do something avant garde. We have this pressure, but it is welcome.
Your patrons have one bite to experience it.
This one bite is presented with context. A lot of stuff is going on in that one bite — it has to inspire you. It can be challenging; you can be judged by one bite. In a world where we are connected to our gadgets, you spend four hours on a meal and interact with nature. These moments are magical. People come in one state of mind, and we watch it dramatically turn into a more positive state. There is a feeling of transcendence. What we do is transformative, and I am not saying this in a pretentious way.
Tell us about the Peruvian food traditions.
In the Andean culture, Peruvians recognise the presence of Mother Earth. Before they sow seeds or harvest, or start to work on fields, they ask for permission from Nature. It seems like a magical connection, but for these communities, it’s just life.
You tend to pick extreme ingredients at times...
Once, I was questioned by the customs at [Los Angeles] airport for carrying piranha meant to be served for a dinner in California. It blew out of proportion. I used to be very curious, and sometimes, reckless. For me, it’s about searching for knowledge and spreading it. Cooking is a good place to share stuff. Doing something people enjoy; doing something you love.
How do you find time to switch off?
I always find my way back to nature. It gives me the peace to reflect about life. I gather all those learnings and take them into the kitchen. I need to see new stuff all the time, and that is why nature is fantastic, because nature is always changing.
What are you taking back from Mumbai?
Chillies for my wife, and a lesson in hospitality.
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