But I never left! he argues

But I never left! he argues

Mumbai-based couturieru00a0 Shahab Durazi has been absent from the sundry fashion weeks that unfold every year in India. His last solo show in 2005 lingers like a faint memory. This year, he is in the mood to
abolish the title of 'urban legend' as he readies to make a fashion week debut with HDIL India Couture Week as final ufffd designer on October 9.

The interview is set for 10.30 am. He is four minutes late. It's been a while since I've focused this hard on my BlackBerry screen, patiently waiting for John Mayer's Why Georgia caller tune to melt into, "Hi, this is Shahab". He is on.
u00a0
I am interviewing India's last-standing reticent designer (He was last photographed in 1999). They don't make them like him anymore. And when we chat, he turns out to be a dose in honesty punctuated with easy humour:
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The Internet is buzzing with reports of how the final ufffd will mark your return to fashion.
I find that amusing. I never left fashion. My livelihood is fashion. But fashion shows are not the only meter gauge for a designer's talent. I didn't participate at fashion weeks because I don't design pr t. How can I show couture on a ready-to-wear platform?u00a0u00a0u00a0

So why the decision to do HDIL India Couture Week?
The couture week property is relatively new in India; barely three years old. I was meant to take part last year, but things didn't pan out as planned. This year, I am here. Next year, I may or may not participate.

You have been vocal about your admiration for David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore's clothing sensibility. The elusive designer duo finally lost runway virginity at Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week in 2010. Where you influenced by their decision to showcase at a fashion week?
Their sensibility is different from mine; they create pr t. I respect the simplicity of their clothes. But nothing or no one can influence me. I do as I please, follow my gut. I do shows at my time and pace. For me, it's imperative to tell a new story through clothes. This year, I am ready to tell a story.

What's your story?
(Laughs) It's vintage Shahab Durazi -- classic but modern timepieces. Indian designers tend to create clothes to portray couture. I intend to showcase what Shahab Durazi can do in the context of couture. The
collection won't be ostentatious. No bridal/Indian wear. It's my interpretation of couture. Excellence in quality and ideas, is how I define couture.

Given your non-adherence to popular culture, how long did it take the organisers to persuade you to do this show?
I didn't play hard to get. I'm a glorified tailor. What's the big deal?

How important is couture?
For me, it makes for commercial viability. My final ufffd collection has taken more than six months to conceive, and execute. It's a painstaking process. And I employ only highly skilled labourers who are attuned to couture. In India, bridal wear passes off in the name of couture. Excess is confusion in camouflage. That's why it's a breath of fresh air when a handful couture designers like Monisha (Jaising) and myself showcase pure couture.

International heavyweight Armani features often in your list of favourites. How does it feel then to be hailed as the 'Armani of Indian fashion'?
It's the press that has conferred the title on me. I think it has to do with the fact that our clothes are easily identifiable; simple and tailored. I'm humbled by the analogy. I have a long way to go to attain his creative and commercial success.

Since you've had the luxury of being on the periphery of Indian fashion, what are your thoughts on the direction in which Indian fashion is headed?
(After a long pause) Appreciation is less on the merit of a designer. There's so much bad fashion all around, and yet designers get away with rave reviews. Everybody wants to be in fashion, gloat in the media. There is an excess of designers, and each one is eating into the other's market. Design bridal wear (it brings your 'bread and butter'), but don't make it your sole commitment.
I haven't employed a PR agency in 20 years. Why do I need them if my product is good?

What about Bollywood's interference in fashion?
It's disheartening.

When was the last time you Googled your name?
Never (laughs).

Are you nervous about your show?
Not at all. Hope things go well.

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