Aditi Sharma's food trail through Sion Koliwada revealed the origins of the iconic Fish Koliwada that's found its way to restaurants across the world. And while she was at it, she bumped into the guy who sends Bollywood's Punjabi superstars atta for their rotis

The best way to get to Sion Koliwada is to rely on your nose. The aroma of freshly grilled Tandoori Chicken is impossible to resist but finding authentic foods in a labyrinth of lanes is a challenge.
The area that was originally a fishermen's colony, accommodated Sikh and Hindu Punjabi refugees who arrived in Mumbai after the Partition.

Enterprising locals set up food stalls way back in the 1950s, and the best have survived half a century to serve bona fide Punjabi fareu00a0-- Tandoori Chicken, Chhole Puri, Kulcha and of course, their original creationu00a0-- Fish Koliwada.

There are five major entry points into Sion Koliwada, and each is marked by a major gurudwara. Our guide for the evening, businessman and local resident Rajneet Singh met us near Shanmukhananda Hall at King's Circle and took us on a walk past the Panchayati Gurudwara, a fish market and a few car repair shops to stop at the corner where Koliwada's oldest and most famous restaurantsu00a0-- Hazara and Mini Punjabu00a0-- are located.


A staffer at Mini Mahal in charge of the tandoori section gets
ready for the evening. Pics/Sayed Sameer Abedi

Where it all began

Local lore has it that Hukumchand Julka, who set up the first restaurant in Koliwada, was the one to introduce Fish Koliwada to the world. Hazara has carried forward Julka's legacy for over 50 years, transforming from a small eatery to a large restaurant with AC/Non AC/Family sections. Many staff members have been with the restaurant for 30 years. "I don't consider this a restaurant. It's my home," says an emotional Urmila Harbans Julka, Hukumchand's daughter-in-law, who has been running the place after her husband's death in 2005. The must-trys here include the finger licking good Chicken Tandoori and Fish/Prawn Koliwada, but Hazara is also famous for its melt-in-the-mouth Paneer Tikka and Paneer Kulchha, Sarson da Saag and Makke di Roti.

At: Punjabi Colony, GTB Nagar, Sion Koliwada.
Call: 24092617
From: 11.30 am to 12 midnight

Caterers to Gawli and Gandhis

As we cross the road for Mini Punjab, Singh says their catering division serves food at almost every Punjabi wedding in the city. Owner Kulvant Singh puts the claim in perspective when he lists gangster-turned-politician Arun Gawli, Congress supremo Sonia Gandhi and superstar Akshay Kumar among his clients.

"Sunil Dutt loved our fish. The last time he visited, there was such a crowd, we asked him to park his car far away. But the fans gathered anyway and eventually, we had to parcel his order," recalls Kulvant. It started off as a tiny stall set up by Hukam Singh. Bahadur Singh is credited for conjuring the Fish Koliwada recipe that makes the place famous.

The other famous item on the menu is the Tandoori Chicken (white masala: less spicy, more tangy. Or red masala: fiery). The Mini Punjab Special is chicken in a mix of Punjabi and Chinese masalas. The debate on whether Hazara makes better Fish Koliwada or Mini Punjab, has been raging for decades.u00a0u00a0

At: Punjabi Colony, GTB Nagar, Sion Koliwada.
Call: 24080923
From: 7 pm to 12.30 am

Tipplers' favourite

Like most eateries here, the entrances to Mini Mahal and Hardeep Punjab are marked by a counter that houses marinated surmai, pomfret, rawas and chicken. These two restaurants are more popular with alcohol guzzlers, so their startersu00a0-- Prawns/Fish Fry, Chicken Platter and dishes like Chicken/Mutton Laal Pariu00a0-- are what they make best. For his veggie patrons, Surinder Singh, aka Vicky from Mini Mahal, has created a special dish called Corn Fry, which is fresh American corn saut ufffded in butter in a flaming wok. "The Gujarati crowd loves it," Vicky says.

Next: to Mini Punjab, GTB Nagar.
Call: 9320750300 (Mini Mahal); 9820548666 (Hardeep Punjab).
From: 7 pm to 12.30 am

Desi khana, dhaba-style

Sion Koliwada is dotted with dhabas. Most cater to the sizeable population of taxiwallas who call this area home. Ramesh Da Dhaba is popular for its sasta and mast khana. Set up by Ramesh Kumar 17 years ago, it's perhaps the youngest eatery in the area. The shy owner was busy working out an order for a langar when we met him. "If ever there is an emergency and you need food for 200 people urgently, come here. He will get the meal ready within the hour," says Singh. Expect desi-style Rajma-chawal, Paneer, and Kadi Pakoda for lunch and dinner and Aloo or Mooli Paratha for breakfast.