It's a change of different sort, a not-so-nice one, where one of the world's most ancient religions finds its nook of worship threatened. Parsi-Irani Zoroastrians in India and around the world have been a worried lot after 200 acres of lush agricultural land in the backyard of Udvada's sacred fire temple were handed over to a private developer to set up industry. Shailesh Bhatia and photographer Ashish Rane visit the coastal hamlet in Gujarat to see a 1,250 year-old fire that's survived Muslim invasion, seastorms and political turmoil, now wrestle with industrialisation

It's not any old fire. It's not even any old sacred fire. With a complex constitution that involves the blend of over 16 types of flames sourced from a potter's kiln, a goldsmith's furnace, a burning pyre, even lightening itself, the Pak Iranshah fire has been burning continuously, day and night, for over 1,250 years.


With youngsters moving to towns and overseas, Udvada's Parsi population
(now estimated at under 100) is dominated by the elderly.

Escaping the Arab invasion of 7th century CE from Iran, a group of Zoroastrians fled by boat carrying little else but this legendary flame. Not in a supportive mood, nature played spoilsport, as a storm unleashed at sea. The group did the only thing they could -- pray. If they braved the storm, they'd set up a fire temple, they promised. Gujarat king Jadav Rana's offer of shelter is a well-celebrated tale. But when Sanjan was attacked by Sultan Mahmud, the group fled once again, hiding for 12 years with the flame in the Barhot hill caves. Bansda, Navsari, and finally Udvada in 1742 CE -- the flame found its home in the little coastal village of Gujarat that lies 200 kms from Mumbai.

Its fight is far from over. Centuries later, the fire finds itself struggling against another demon -- industralisation. Last month, a land deal in Udvada became the centre of concern and chaos after a 200-acre agricultural plot in the backyard of the Iranshah Atashbehram (fire temple), was sold to private builder Nucleus Developers Pvt. Ltd. The Udvada Samast Anjuman that represents the local Parsi residents, headed by Vada Dasturs (High Priests), wrote to Gujarat Chief Minister Narendra Modi for help, floated an online petition, and held meetings with officials from various ministries in Gandhinagar. The Valsad district administration cancelled permission for the development of an industrial estate, following which the developer approached the Revenue Tribunal against the cancelling order. The tribunal ordered a status quo on the matter.

But the threat is far from over, say Parsi residents who now number less than a hundred. Last Wednesday, the otherwise laidback village experienced a volatile atmosphere when the Sunday MiD DAY team dropped by for a visit. In a meeting held at the Grampanchayat office attended by senior members of the civic administration and the Parsi community, residents said they had reason to believe that plans were now on for a mega row house project that could see about 400 row houses crop up on the lush green plot.

In the din of attacks and counter attacks, some agitated members alleged that they believe a financial transaction had transpired between the officials and the developer, who they claim had donated huge sums for civic amenities and was seeking unreasonable favours in return.

Caught in a lie
Facing a volley of questions over how a non-agriculture certificate was issued to a private developer, without the consent of the community and residents, Thakur Patel, Deputy. Grampanchyat, said he had received the consent of the Head Priest before the NA certificate was issued. Amid the furor, Manek Todiwala, a local hotel owner, put technology to good use and dialled High Priest Khurshed K Dastoor who was in Mumbai at the time. On speakerphone, Dastoor denied the claim for all to hear.

"Following our agitation, and the status quo on the matter, no activity is currently on. But the Grampanchayat is in collusion with the developer, which consists of over three partners, to pass a plan to construct 400 row houses. Once the commercialisation of the village begins, the next step could be to revert to the earlier plan of setting up industry," said Todiwala.

Talking later to Sunday MiD DAY, Thakur claimed that the entire village, except for the Parsi community, was in favour of the private builder setting up shop. Ironically, this wasn't evident from the large number of non-Parsis who arrived at the meeting in support.u00a0

Thakur said paperwork for the clearance was in order, and the same could be revoked if the local community's protest persisted. When this reporter requested Valsad district collector Nalin Thaker's contact, Thakur, Samsudin Sheikh and Panchayat member Nanubhai Patel claimed they didn't have it.

History of the disputed land
Known as Tata Wadi, owing to its one-time owners, the plot was sold in the early 1980s to a gentleman who locals refer to as Lalu Jogi, a businessman from Daman. Although the exact cost of the current deal with Nucleus, whose signboard stands at the entrance of the property, is not clear, it is estimated to be in the region of Rs 40 crore. "There are over 25 fully-grown coconut and mango trees inside, yielding fruit worth lacs during season. The property is so vast, it took me over five hours to cover it on foot," said Manoj Rathod, a local who had been called on by the landlords for menial work.

Builder's take
When contacted, Pramod Banka claimed to be Director and authorised signatory of Nucleus Developers Pvt. Ltd. "I cannot give you any details on the phone. Wahan sab galatfehmi chal rahi hai. Kya karein? Isu00a0 company ke hum hi malik hain, hamara sab barabar chal raha hi. Aap is mudde ko mat uthao (This is all a misunderstanding. I am the owner of this company and it has been functioning fine. Please don't bring up this issue)," he said. He directed this reporter to Adil Kherani, a Vapi-based builder.

Kherani denied any intention of setting up industry in Udvada, and accused locals of spreading rumours to jeopardize the project. "We plan to construct row houses and farm houses 250 meters away from the revered fire temple. There is nothing illegal about the project. The commotion is the result of misleading propaganda" he said.

Kherani said he had no idea about the promoters of Nucleus Developers or the estimated cost of the project, and that his father, who is currently in Saudi Arabia, was in possession of the details. "I am not aware of any money that's been transferred to UK by Hawala, andu00a0 there is no truth to the accusation."

What ails Udvada?
Mumbai resident Rohinton Irani, who had driven down to Udvada to attend the Grampanchayet meeting, said it was time the community played a more vital role in the decision making of the land, lovingly tilled by their forefathers who travelled by sea all the way from Persia. "Grampanchayat meetings are held and decisions taken without informing the local Parsi families. This is simply not fair. If the working of the Panchayat is transparent, why are we alienated and kept in the dark?"

Priests and locals are concerned that haywire and large scale commercialisation without a civic infrastructure plan will not only destroy the charm of this quaint village, it could salinate freshwater wells that the community considers sacred and are crucial in certain religious ceremonies like Yasna and Vendidad. "Ecological imbalance is already a big concern for us, with houses and commercial establishments on the beach having borne the brunt of beach erosion. Though the government is said to have spent a sizeable amount on butting barricades, a visit to the beach shows that the worst is far from over," said resident Sarosh Irani.

"Sacrifices have been made by our forefathers to keep the Zoroastrian tradition alive and it is the duty of our society to protect it. We are concerned that industrialisation will contaminate our wells that are a vital part of our rituals," said Nina Pavri, who has migrated from UK and plans to open a school for underprivileged tribal children in Udvada.