Our sutradhaars pay rich tribute at the Gateway of India on an important date in history that tends to get overlooked in most city-centric timelines
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"Why have you got me here, Pheroze? Isn't it off our usual trail route for this evening?" Lady Flora was always keen to know the whys and hows of everything, and this time, she noticed that they were heading towards the end of Apollo Pier, the stretch of land that jutted into the harbour's waters, towards the Gateway of India. Sir PM should have known he'd be questioned by his friend. "Oh yes, My Lady… I thought it would be nicer to ease you into this detour that I have planned for you," he tried to build up his case, mainly to avert any possible annoyance that could come from her end.
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109 years ago...
Once they reached the landmark, Sir PM halted, turned towards her and said, "Lady Flora, do you know why we are here today? It was 109 years ago to this day [January 10] that King George V and Queen Mary departed from India's shores from this point, after they had arrived in India the previous year to attend the Delhi Durbar. At that time there was no Gateway as you see it in this avatar, and…" Even before he could speak any further, Lady Flora interrupted him, "Really! This is truly insightful information. My sincere apologies; please carry on." Sir PM continued, "So, as I was saying, this was a makeshift structure built much before the present-day landmark. A famous historian told me that an iron shed once stood here, built in the style of a Mongol tent, and it became a shelter for seafaring passengers in the early days of the British rule. Then, just before King George V's visit in 1911, this shed was haphazardly replaced by a pavilion of white Plaster of Paris. The King and Queen departed from the same temporary structure."
Lady Flora was all ears, but was also a tad irritated with her own lack of awareness about one of her favourite monuments. "Tell me, Pheroze, how did this beautiful gateway eventually take shape?" By now, she had craned her neck to witness it in all its glory. "Soon after they left India's shores, the then Governor of Bombay, Lord Sydenham, initiated a scheme to commence work on a permanent structure. History books will tell you that the inaugural stone was laid in 1913, and work began to level the promenade around the plaza. The impressive archway was eventually completed by 1927," Sir PM loved his time in the sun, as he disseminated these gems to his friend.
George Wittet design
"I believe there was this Scottish gent, Wittet…wasn't he responsible for its unique design? Lady Flora jogged her memory to recall this fact that she had heard from her friend, the Captain. "Spot on, my Lady. He was George Wittet. This is one of his finest works – created in the Indo Saracenic style. It's a cross of influences, my historian friend tells me – from Arc de Triomphe in Paris, a Moorish mansion as well as inspiration from traditional Gujarati architecture," Sir PM was in fine form. After all, he rarely got a chance to speak about his second-favourite passion – architecture. Law was his first love. By now, both friends were gazing at the masterpiece with renewed pride. "I believe yellow basalt stone from Kharodi in Thane was used to build the Gateway. The pierced stonework came from Gwalior. And note the fretted framework above each of the three arches – that is a direct influence, again from 16th century Gujarati architecture. But you know what? Wittet had also proposed a grand avenue beside the Gateway that never got implemented," he sighed.
Wittet laid to rest in Sewri
"He was laid to rest in Bombay itself, in 'far-off' Sewri. Sadly, his grave has been buried over but we can head there to see the spot; I've been there once before," Sir PM's voice lowered as the words came out. "Pheroze, you must take me there to pay my respects to the man who gave Bombay such a timeless landmark." Sir PM nodded. The two walked past the plaza down Apollo Bunder promenade, re-imagining the many historic highlights that it had been and continues to be privy to.
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