Qureshi the father was going on about the miracle of umami, the so-called fifth taste. A deep understanding of umami magic is baked into his genes — he is, after all, in the third generation of a family of legendary cooks — but he goes all over the map when he tries to explain it succinctly. He knows where to find it: in soybeans, mushrooms, tomatoes, parmesan cheese, pickles, fermented foods, and others. He plays with umami. But he is no TED speaker.

We are in the central kitchen of Kakori House, Ishtiyaque’s modest chain of eateries that have become famous for their buttery kakori kebabs. These days, he sports a pointy maharaja moustache, reminiscent of his father, the legendary Imtiaz Qureshi, who introduced India to the dum cuisine of Avadh.

I have known Ishtiyaque for 40 years, and though he knows about glutamates and their central role in creating the umami flavour, he is not exactly a scientific cook. He is an artist, and cooks with his nose, his fingers, and his gut, feeling his way through a labyrinth of evolving tastes, fragrances, textures, and colours until he arrives at the dish he will serve you.