There are 705 anthropologically, ethnically, and linguistically distinct, constitutionally recognised Scheduled Tribes in India according to the Ministry of Tribal Affairs. Unfortunately, hundreds of these, each with countless unique cultural differences are often shoved under the common umbrella term, tribal. And it’s no different when it comes to fashion. Professor Anvita Abbi is a linguist known for her studies on indigenous languages. She says, “The word [tribal] troubles me too.” But there has been a semantic shift in the word tribal. “When we were growing up, its use was considered derogatory… it erroneously implied unsophisticated, junglee. Today the word is appealing, and represents authenticity.” 

She is right. With amped-up efforts at acknowledging diversity, inclusivity and culture, fashion retailers and designers have understood the advantage of endorsing the term. From Amazon India, Myntra to Nykaa Fashion, Ajio and Aza Fashions, just about every fashion and lifestyle e-commerce retailer is selling products under sub-category: Tribal. As an adjectival synonym, the word is used casually to describe clothing, accessories or home décor that involve graphic prints, striking bead work or embroideries and a bright colour palette.  “This results in a subtle casting of indigenous cultures as ‘other’ or ‘exotic’. The otherness sets up a contrast between fashion as something that’s urban against ethnic societies, that’s perceived as something outside modernity,” thinks Dr Bipin Jojo, professor at Tata Institute of Social Sciences (TISS) in Mumbai. His comprehensive research on land, policies, education and migration and how these impact tribal communities, has been integral to tribal studies in India.