Same tadka on the menu

For those of you who track this column yoursquod know by now that when it comes to wandering the streets of this city one of the areas that offers immense satisfaction joy and of late pain too but most importantly insight Matunga ranks right up thereSo a few days back when we were longing for some authentic Udupi fare we found ourselves strolling past the rapidlytransforming streetscape of Kingrsquos Circle and Matunga after a day in the office As we polished off the memorable Benne Masala Dosa that my eating companion referred to as a lsquoclutchrsquo since its shape bore an uncanny resemblance the star among many other goodies that followed we managed to catch the odd glimpse of the buzz around us It was a nobrainer to gauge why the eatery was doing brisk business Simple menu hearty fare good service oldtime familyrun establishmentmdashit had all the ingredients to make it a longplaying success storyBefore we could get carried away by the sheera that was singing out melodiously to us or the filter kaapi thatrsquos always an instant upper we decided to call for the bill and instead burn a few calories by walking down the lanes of this neighbourhood since it was well before Cinderella hour As we made our way through these familiar parts we observed that a noticeable change had seeped into the arearsquos ecosystemIn the past thanks to our connection with Matunga that goes all the way back to our college days we would always link it as the goto place for all things South Indiamdashfrom the delicious traditional fare whipped up by its Udupi kitchens to its colourful flower market to the handy kirana shops that offered all kinds of condiments and household necessities from banana leaves and MS Subbulakshmi audio CDs to set mundus To the citydwelling South Indian it was a slice of home in the big city and for folks like us it was a reassuring stamp of Bombayrsquos cosmopolitan vibe reiterating its tag as the lsquomelting potrsquo of cultures where different locations represented their unique identity Like Bhuleshwar Bandra and Bhendi Bazaar Matunga was a critical dot on the multicultural map to remind us of how the Maximum City despite being spacestarved had ensured that communities from all across India and beyond could carve their own nicheThe past decade had also witnessed a thriving night food market that had sprung up along the broad footpaths they lined the retail shops which went silent beyond working hours Initially wersquod spot a few vendors in operation mostly from handcartsmdashthese makeshift kiosks would dish out everything from pavbhaji to greasy Indian Chinese fare hungry patrons would stuff their faces with this street fare while being seated on chataais often the bonnets of parked cars would acts as temporary tables All of this would happen within close proximity of their Udupi counterparts It appeared like a harmless coexistence of old and newHowever on that night as we took our usual route to grab a coffee from another Udupi we noticed that these kiosks had mushroomed in many other parts of Matunga standing cheekbyjowl and dare we say seeming much in demand when compared to the OGs From kebabs and spring rolls to lsquochopsweyrsquo there was a mad rush for this fare Interestingly one of these clusters was a stonersquos throw away from a popular Udupi that had shifted from its original address to an underconstruction site a few blocks away No prizes for guessing whymdashyes its previous home was in a building that had gone in for redevelopment It was a stark contrast one that was probably being played out in other parts of the city at the same hourAlso Read Caught between budget promises and old pension schemeIf someone were to be airdropped to this spot they would have guessed it to be a typical khau galli located in any corner of Indiamdashsame ajinomoto same oily fare and same plastic cutlery It didnrsquot make for a pleasant sight for this columnist whorsquos been a dedicated observer of these parts for over two decadesBut this came as a rude wakeup call of an eventuality that seems unstoppable With redevelopment becoming the norm rather than the exception thatrsquos sweeping away the original city and its suburbs this alarming transformation could rob these parts of its true identity from a cultural and culinary perspective As Matungaites end up living in skyhigh towers or decide to move elsewhere itrsquos anyonersquos guess what will become of the neighbourhood If this is a sign of things to come then will we see more parts of the city known for their specific identity lose their tags like Matunga which is lsquoMini Madrasrsquo Will we witness more such gentrified khau gallis take over the foodscape of localities as similar cuisines and fare become the preferred choice It made for an insipid forecast one that even the flavourful aftertaste of the Benne Masala Dosa couldnrsquot rescue us from Itrsquos up to us average Bombaywallahs to offer continued support to the real culinary ambassadors who define its rich diverse cultural fabricmiddayrsquos Features Editor Fiona Fernandez relishes the cityrsquos sights sounds smells and stoneswherever the ink and the inclination takes her She tweets bombayanaSend your feedback to mailbagmiddaycom