Who wears the pants? Both

Shahab Durazi how you have changed In previous years yoursquove been luxurious but slightly staid and caramel But now yoursquore free youthful coolThese are immediate feelings when we see the couturierrsquos first genderneutral collection titled Fine amp Dandy which was unveiled on social media recently It arrives at an interesting moment in the cultural timeline of Indian fashion marked by greater awareness and discussion around gender identityAnswering the timeworn question of who wears the pants Durazi thinks both ldquoIt was a challenge to strike a balance between elements that are neither too mannish nor feminine effeminate nor androgynousrdquo says Durazi apropos making the couture collection ldquoIrsquove designed gender specific conservative classics but this is my first genderfluid collection I think I have got the right viberdquo adds the couturier who launched his eponymous brand in 1988 in MumbaiShahab DuraziAnd this vibe is far from subtle Itrsquos in the clothes but also in the attitude exuberance the unapologetic regalia and a notion of the other There are some interesting historical crossreferences to the English dandy like the stiffened standup collars and elaborately tied neckerchiefs and bow ties almost professing a feminist solidarity with pussybow necktiesWill ldquorealrdquo men wear pearlandbead encrusted bow ties Durazi 59 makes no attempt to hide his ldquoslightrdquo concern ldquoThatrsquos why Irsquove steered clear from making it overly flamboyant I hope men will dare to indulge their necksrdquo He adds that the bow ties and neckerchiefs are detachable piecesDurazi is personally seen in straightedge and solidhued polo shirts and trousers almost every time he makes a rare social appearance Would he wear a lacy bow tie from Fine amp Dandy ldquoCertainly if therersquos an opportunityrdquo he says with a laugh Photographed by Rafique Sayed the 46 looks depict the designerrsquos everevolving eye his wit a distillation of rich experience and his knowledge of line and proportion ldquoI used the two lockdowns to completely redesign my paper patterns for Western wearrdquo he says Although the campaign is shot with a cast of male models ldquodue to logisticsrdquo Durazi reasons that the tailored clothing preferences are equally for women of all ages The core styles in the collectionmdashroomier chests rounded shoulders and narrow waistsmdashare cut for both men and women ldquoItrsquos just clever pattern cuttingrdquo he saysHe produces wild wardrobe diversity with bolero jackets cut short with narrow round shoulders to resemble ribbed knitwear and raglansleeved bandhgalas wrists cuffed in pearl Swarovski and lasercut lace details and style references ranging from Netflixrsquos Peaky Blinders Downton Abbey and Bridgerton His models dressed in satin and organza fluted and embroidered cummerbunds and skirts worn ironically as a detail over tailored trousers ldquoItrsquos a twist on the kurtalayeredbeneathjacket pairing Men often complain about the kurta being cumbersome so itrsquos substituted with a fitted skirt It teases an illusion of the kurta while doing away with excess fabric weightrdquo Durazi explainsAn interplay of feminine and masculine modes washed in hues of monochrome navy rosepink and camel keep things exciting as Durazi draws focus on four accent points the waist wrist shoulders and necklines rather than hemlines ldquoApart from versions of slim trousers and breeches the bottomhalf is fairly conservativerdquo he confidesSoft spoken and courteous to a fault Durazi is delightful company during this telephonic interview His answers seem succinctly rationed and are usually preceded by long pauses But thatrsquos not the case when questioned about the current male fashion scene ldquoIrsquom tired of seeing sherwanis covered in embroidery Why is menrsquos fashion in India restricted to wedding wear While everyonersquos narrative is different a designerrsquos work has to speak of the ideas technique and aesthetic that she wants to promote The embroidery or embellishment is the craft language of karigars not designersrdquoIs he wondering if this collection will sell ldquoI am not pandering to the market but to my own sensibilities When I started working on the collection I wanted to do it for my own creativityrdquo