A meal in the mountains

A new book delves into forgotten, or less used, grains and greens, spices and fruits from Rishikesh to retain the biodiversity that is vital for your physical and mental health

Born in Balloki, a small township in the western part of undivided Punjab, and later raised in Delhi, Dr Veena Sharma is someone who has travelled extensively. While she did a PhD from the African Studies Centre, School for International Studies, Jawaharlal Nehru University, New Delhi, it was Sharma’s position as Head of Swahili Service at All India Radio that allowed her to go places. Quite literally. During the 1980s, she was invited as a UN Fellow to Bangkok, New York, Nairobi, and Vienna by the UN Council for Namibia, UN Commission on South Africa, UN International Decade for Women, and UN Council for Namibia, respectively. But, it was only in 2016, when she settled in Rishikesh, Uttarakhand, that Sharma planted the seed of her first food book.

Finger millet and wheat flour halwa

Titled Vegetarian Cuisine from the Himalayan Foothills (Niyogi Books), the book is a delectable experience for gastronomes. It delves into mouth-watering recipes that draw on Rishikesh’s local bounty. “I started engaging with food in a more hands-on way since moving into a small flat here [Rishikesh]. This is not to say that I was not inclined to do so earlier, but here I seemed to have flowed into the whole process in a more holistic way. As mentioned in the book also, when I settled in Rishikesh, I found myself exposed to a huge variety of produce: be the lentils or legumes, herbs and spices or greens. That made me palpably aware of what bio-diversity actually means, and what a storehouse of nutrition it provides,” she tells mid-day.

The recipes given are simple, for our everyday consumption. 

“I may also add that I was always interested in the therapeutic qualities of food and felt that the first pharmacy we should visit is our own kitchen.”

Also Read: A meal from the mountains of Garhwal at this pop-up in Andheri

It is the local grains that made her truly connect with the soil there. “It is interesting to note how so many varieties are grown in different parts, depending on the gradient and direction of the beautiful terraced fields, which are exposed to varied amounts of sunlight, wind velocity and precipitation.”

Some of these local grains that have made it to the book include seasonal spices such as jakhiya, chora, bhangjeera and faran. “Jakhiya is a smaller-than-mustard-seed spice, which has a crisp, crunchy flavour and adds zest to the dish. There are many greens like lingdaa, which, for some reason, is called fiddlehead greens in English. It looks like a coiled-up stem and opens up into a kind of fern. It grows in swamps and is difficult to harvest, and is generally available during the monsoons. Leafy greens like different kinds of chaulai [amaranth], rai, bathua and others are available at different times of the year. 

Pahadipalak is smaller leafed and tastier than the large-leafed palak. Kakora is a pahadi karela with pokey little fronds, which make it look like a light green Coronavirus. This variety is sweet and cooks quickly. Then there are hemp seeds, which are used by the locals in chutneys or pakoras to which it gives a crunchy taste.”

Comparing food scenarios in Delhi and Rishikesh, she says people look for a variety of foods from different regions of the world when eating out in the capital. “In Rishikesh, too, small outlets provide cuisine from other parts of the world, but most of them emphasise the usage of organic and wholesome ingredients. This may be because the clientele they cater to comes here with the objective of overhauling and recharging their physical systems.”

Sharma believes that food is deeply connected to the mind. “Practitioners of Ayurveda tell us that there is a direct connection between the gastrointestinal system and the mind. Modern medicine is also now recognising this connection. The vagus nerve that connects the brain to the gut also passes through the lungs and heart and influences them. The gut is embedded with millions of neurons that ‘talk’ directly to the brain. Moreover, 20 per cent of the very subtle nutrients produced by the gut are supplied to the brain. A healthy gut can lead to a clearer brain and better memory. The book gives some indication of this connection.”

Dr Sharma believes her work also honours those who have turned away from industrial meat production, which treats animals like a commodity rather than living sentient beings. In short, this book is a treat for vegan readers. “They are sometimes called shuddha shakaharis,” she is quick to add.

Each chapter gives an overview of the subject and follows it up with recipes. So which is her favourite, we ask. “I am partial to millets. They are hardy and grow without the need for chemicals and pesticides. They are also highly nutritious and lend themselves to a variety of ways of cooking.”

The book, she adds, is a result of experimentation and is also an invitation to others to explore. “The book is meant to show that if I can do it, anyone can. Food is something that can never be boring; it provides opportunities to create ever new dishes and experiment with flavours, and suit them to our preferences.”

As far as food is concerned, Sharma now wishes to put together a book about sacred foods prepared in different parts of Rishikesh, during festival and ritual times. “We should help preserve these before they get forgotten. That may also help retain some of the farms that are fast being destroyed by unmindful policies and cheap tourism.”

Zucchini and sweet potatoes tossed in mustard and poppy seeds
Prep Time: 15–20 Minutes | Cooking Time: 20–25 Minutes |Servings: 4–6

Ingredients
 Zucchini (sliced)
 Sweet potatoes (steamed lightly and cut into ¼ thick, round slices)
 Sunflower oil
 Yellow mustard seeds  
 Black mustard seeds
 Poppy seeds (khus khus)  
 Himalayan pink salt

Method
Sprinkle some of the seeds in very little oil. Small quantities of seeds will be needed at one time, as all the slices of the zucchini or sweet potato cannot be done at the same time and the process will have to be repeated. Place slices of zucchini and then sweet potato into the seeded oil. The seeds will stick on one side. The two should be done separately as they require different durations to cook. Dust the exposed upper side with salt. Flip when one side is nicely caramelised (from the vegetable’s own juices) and repeat for the other side. 
No need to put more seeds for the other side.
To give a little crunch to this dish, serve it with semi-dry chutney.

The accidental gin

To celebrate their third anniversary, makers of Greater Than are out with a new, juniper-heavy spirit. We got a gin enthusiast to tell us if it’s really a tipple with a twist

Murali Menon, content strategist at Haymarket SAC, reviews Juniper Bomb, a just-launched limited release gin by NAO Spirits

The gin has three times the amount of juniper as compared to the original

Back in 2017, when the founders of Nao Spirits, India’s first craft gin company, were figuring out their recipe for Greater Than, their first product, they were faced with a seemingly interminable power cut at their distillery. This led to the juniper berries steeping for a lot longer than intended—for as much as 32 hours over two days. The consequence of that delayed distillation process was apparently an eminently drinkable spirit that obviously boomed with juniper. Nao Spirits bookmarked the process and returned to it late last year. The result is the limited edition Greater Than Juniper Bomb. An overeager marketer would probably have embellished the story of its serendipitous discovery with dark nights at the distillery scented with the aroma of juniper, a relentless downpour, and flashes of lightning that illuminated the pot still. But the Juniper Bomb doesn’t need mythologising—what we have here is a juniper-forward gin that is both engaging and refreshing.

Folks who have been sipping Greater Than will find it to be a largely familiar drink. It has the same botanicals—among them, ginger, orange peel, coriander seeds and lemon grass—but with three times the amount of juniper as compared to the original. The aroma consequently, is zesty, woody, and spicy, and the gin literally explodes on your palate. The mouthfeel is crisp and viscous, and the finish is pleasant. Think of it as an extroverted Greater Than and you’ll see where I’m going.

According to Nao Spirits, the Juniper Bomb, which retails for Rs 1,750 and has just hit stores in Mumbai, is partly inspired by the growing global trend of gins with a heavier taste of juniper, and aimed at a consumer “who truly likes his or her gin” and expects a little more than just a ‘nice’ drink. It also describes the gin as ‘complex’, but I wouldn’t go that far. While the Juniper Bomb makes for a great G&T—with a bitter tonic water—or a dry martini, the ideal way to have it is with just a splash of water and a dash of lime.

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