Breaking bread and barriers at Babulnath

From the bylanes of Babulnath where we parked the car to the corner of Road 1 where Pinky Chandan Dixit and her husband Aseem Dixit have started a new restaurant Aamchee at least four people including the panwala and another restaurateur have greeted her with namaste Itrsquos the respect she has earned over 20 years since she first started Soam at Chowpatty ldquoAre you nervous about the fate of Aamcheerdquo we ask immediatelyldquoI amrdquo she replies candidly ldquoItrsquos not something we have done before and it is so different from Soamrdquo she smiles ldquobut then so was Soam Starting a place that serves seasonal Gujarati comfort dishes in a neighbourhood dominated by the community we just couldnrsquot go wrongrdquoVaran BhaatThe idea for Aamchee the couplersquos culinary child struck when they observed they would have a tough time deciding what to eat when they went out with their daughter ldquoI see a similar struggle with other familiesrdquo says Aseem ldquoThe older generation doesnrsquot like what the youngsters want and the latter donrsquot relate to what their parents or grandparents eat Aamchee is that middle ground of food we grew up eating in this city albeit with a modern take Yet it isnrsquot gimmicky or in deconstructed formrdquoPardewala Tomato SoupSet in a beautiful building at the corner of Babulnath crossroad the restaurant has three sections including a private dining room with large windows one of which looks straight out at the Arabian Sea and there are nooks where you can curl up with a book or spend a work day eating healthy food and drinks The tall ceilings and the artdeco interiors of the main dining area remind one of colonial gymkhanas in all their glory On one side an oldefashioned Bombaystyle bakery tempts with pies pastries croissants and other sinful indulgences ldquoStarting a bakery was an older plan which got pushed into my retirement plan but now it has been accelerated I am glad We bake our bread toordquo says Pinky proudlyNariman ChaatThe menu encapsulates the culinary heritage of Mumbai and the people who make the city and call it home The dishes reflect the myriad histories communities and flavours and yet the list doesnrsquot entirely rest on nostalgia Itrsquos an innovative and exciting way to get youngsters interested in food that makes much of Mumbai march on its stomachWe started with the spicy pomegranate paloma R250 the chilli nimbu pani R190mdashwhich had the right amount of tangmdashand Aamchee sol kadi R220 that had a simple soulful zing The Aamchee pardewala tamatar Soup R250 is an oldschool recipe with a splash of basil oil covered with a flaky puff pastry crust Hearty and full of bold tangy flavours this soup is enough to keep you warm especially now with crazy weather changes ldquoReminds you of the soup on a train rightrdquo asks Aseem ldquoJust that on a train you wonrsquot have a crust and the dramardquo We laugh in unisonChilli Nimbu PaniNext up the schoolwala khatta thela salad R350 Just as the name suggests itrsquos an ode to handcarts selling tangy treats outside schools with raw mangoes starfruit and tamarind in a tangy dressing We also tried the Nariman Salad R280 streetstyle black chickpeas tossed in an inhouse vinaigrette that one often has on the promenade at Marine Drive Served in a conical paper cone it hit the right memory notesThe Bandra mushroom shami bites R280mdashone of the many creations by Chef Anuradha Medhora of Charoli Foods LLP who has been consulting with Aamchee for the menumdashhad vegetarian shami kebabs sandwiched between Bandrarsquos favourite flaky puff pastry served with a dollop of cheesy curd dip The vada pav sliders R250 were bitesized offerings in four flavoursmdashchilli mustard garlic chutney green thetcha and curry leaf podimdashall in white butter The masala dosa spring roll R250 had curry leaf spiced potatoes stuffed inside a miniature version of the South Indian thela staplePinky and Aseem Dixitrsquos idea of Aamchee came from wanting the next generation to enjoy the food of the city just as they do PicsAnurag AhireThe East Indian waffle chaat R250 served crunchy potato waffles with ragda spiced with East Indian bottle masala from Chimbai village Representing the extended city is Sion da alu paratha R350mdashmildlyspiced homestyle potato parathas served with green garlic spiced butter carrot pickle and a pudina dip ldquoYou donrsquot have to go fishing for the aloo in the parathas like at most placesrdquo says Aseem We agree the filling is not frugalAamchee varan bhaat R350 is the authentic Maharashtrian comfort meal of simple tuar dal served with a pumpkin preparation crispy spiced ladyfingers and papadsmdasha spirited rendition of meals that heal And what honestly had our hearts was the Khar Sindhi sai bhaji meal R350 Wholesome spinach and chana dal served with a caramelised onion pulao called bugga rice and papad of course along with crispy tikkisThe IC Colony serradura R300 dessert gave a twist to the onenote Portuguese classic with orange marmaladesweetened whipped cream and crumbled ginger biscuits The Dongri khaja R350 had gulab jamun and pistachio cream sandwiched between flaky khaja pastry served with kesar rabdimdashit melted our hearts We made space for the towering Knicker Bocker Glory R450 which was a medley of vanilla ice cream strawberry compote fresh strawberries blueberry compote fresh blueberries and loads of whipped cream Aseem plans to run family contests for who can complete the tall glass in one go to bring back good olrsquo times of family outings ldquoEarlier wersquod go out to eat on occasion now we eat at home occasionallyrdquo laughs PinkyWe noticed how Pinky talked to people at the table next to ours maintaining cheery vibes and the feelgood factor of this bistroesque restaurant It made us think that opening another Soam would have been so much easier for the couple but then you realise they arenrsquot in it only for the money Running a niche restaurant in South Mumbai believing in your food philosophy and making families feel happy about eating out is what they are in formdashfor the long haulWhere Aamchee Soni Building Pandita Ramabai Road Opposite Bhartiya Vidya Bhavan Girgaon ChowpattyCall 9769337000