Uncool for the longest time, the humble oil is finally being seen as the elixir everyone needs for good skin. How did oiling go from a mother-daughter bonding ritual to an Instagram-worthy beauty regime?
Pic/Shadab Khan
Oil is not new to any desi. Its importance has been reiterated again and again by our mothers and grandmothers. Champi, followed by two pleats, was a school-going ritual for most young girls, including this writer. But the last few years, especially during the pandemic, has seen everyone return to the humble oil, which underwent a glamorous makeover.
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Repackaged into several tiny bottles, the cold-pressed versions, mixed with pleasant-smelling essential oils, swiftly entered everybody’s self-care regimen. This time, it wasn’t just hair, it was everything—face, feet... you name it.
Megha Asher
“The cyclicity of trends seems to be putting a spotlight on oils again. For some time, the beauty world looked to synthetic formulations for all their needs, and the pendulum has now swung back with more interest in organic and natural again,” says Megha Asher, COO and co-founder, Juicy Chemistry, which launched facial oils eight years ago. “Back in 2014, nobody knew what they were or how they could use it. Today, our facial oils are a cult favourite,” says Asher, adding that she noted an increase in their demand towards the end of 2019. “It shot up significantly in 2020, since people were working from home and had time to invest in their beauty routine. More time also led to an exponential rise in time spent exploring trends. These two factors came together like a match made in heaven and created a strong demand for facial oils.”
Another important factor contributing to this demand is the new-age formulation that is light in texture and has a solution-centric approach. “The traditional oils like coconut, sesame or almond are known to be a bit heavier. So, the oils that our grandparent’s generation was using were thick, kind of gloopy, had an unpleasant smell and took time to apply and absorb. Now, they are powered with good ingredients and promise clear benefits and results. They are also lighter in texture, a lot of them are specifically formulated to be absorbed by damp skin, which boosts overall health of the skin,” shares Antara Kundu, deputy general manager Asia (South), The Body Shop, which re-launched a lighter formulation of their hemp body oil in 2020 to meet this demand.
Ankita Thadani co-founded Secret Alchemist with her mother Sumi, an aromatherapist, during the pandemic
According to an EMR report, India’s coconut oil-based cosmetics market stood at a value of Rs 8,225 crore in 2020. It is expected to grow at a CAGR of 6.8 per cent in the forecast period of 2022-2027, to attain a value of Rs 12,523 crore by 2026. Another report by Transparency Market Research states that India’s essential oils market is expected to reach an output of 50,400 tonnes by the end of 2030.
“The COVID-19 crisis saw a transition in consumer buying behaviour, which largely emerges from the increased awareness of the need of living a healthy lifestyle. Conscious of the chemicals that go into making oils or any other cosmetic products, people are now looking at natural oils, which provide nourishment and result as skin-care products,” shares Jigar Patel, co-founder and CEO, Brillare, whose company specialises in zero-dilution oil shots, a pack of which offers eight vials, each carrying 6 ml oil and claims to reduce hairfall in 15 days.
Jigar Patel, co-founder, Brillare, says that body oils are among their highest selling products and credits the COVID-19 crisis for an increased awareness about taking care of the mind and body
Beyond skincare, these oils are also being used to calm anxiety, deal with insomnia, relief from migraine as well nose congestion. “Aromatherapy, a subset of Ayurveda, has a solution to a lot of ailments. Smell is one of the strongest senses in our body. When you inhale an aroma, it reaches your olfactory senses and through them, all over the body and when it reaches the limbic system in your brain, it sends sensory signals to calm you down,” explains Ankita Thadani, a former architect, who along with her mother, Sumi, a certified aromatherapist, founded Secret Alchemist during the pandemic. “During the first wave of COVID-19, we noticed a lot of anxiety among people. When we studied the market, we noticed a gap when it came to products for ailments like insomnia, depression and anxiety. It made us bifurcate and create products for relaxation and relief,” shares Thadani, adding that the oil for migraine was added months later after they received queries about aromatherapy helping with migraine headaches. “Our products are not an alternative. If you have chronic anxiety or depression, you have to see a doctor. It is for people who feel a mild sense of anxiousness and wish to relax,” she cautions.
For some companies, their oils are what’s drawing business. “Our Kumkumadi oil is the fastest selling product; it contributes to 40 per cent of our sales across India. It worked so well that it has been added to our product line curated for USA,” informs Astha Katpitia, head of Shankara Naturals, India. Contributing to this demand significantly are digital campaigns run extensively by the brands. Speaking about the marketing tools that the brands are using to promote their products, Neha Ahuja, founder, Kaashi Wellness, shares, “Influencer marketing has changed the communication where through visuals, audio and experience an influencer is able to communicate the product with utmost clarity to today’s consumers.” Patel adds, “Digital platforms have been critical to pushing out messaging about our products. Everything from our Instagram to our website and even digital marketing ‘billboards’ have helped us convey product specifications and usage patterns. The clarity allows first-time buyers to complete the purchase without hesitation.”
‘Pick wisely, or you may pay’
Rashmi Shetty, dermatologist says that while oil “is best for hair and skin”, essential oils could be a double-edged sword. “Go for freshly cold-pressed oils for your face. Begin with warming the oil slightly—that makes it thin, easy to spread and gives a nice blood rush to the face. Then, gently massage with your finger tips for a few minutes and simply wash it off with warm water. A massage with coconut oil is also very helpful for even skin conditions like extremely dry skin, eczematous, psoriasis, etc. However, if you have acne, talk to your dermatologist or an expert before you start using face oil,” she says.
‘My oily skin became plump’
Aashi Adani, content creator
‘Seeing the trend, I thought of using the regular oil that was available at home, but my acne-prone skin reacted badly to it. This made me sceptical about oils, and it wasn’t until six months ago, that I finally tried face oils. Being cautious, I used an oil for about one week and only when it didn’t react like the last time, was I convinced to continue using it. After using it for a couple of weeks, I noticed that my skin barriers became stronger leading to lesser breakouts. My skin looked healthy even under make-up’
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