Women's fashion is precarious business. Masaba Gupta's new collection created in collaboration with best friend and entrepreneur Rhea Kapoor sets out to enquire about the traditional definition of femininity and the role of clothing, but specifically, the norms governing how women dress. Somewhere between an entrée of a teaser post showing a middle finger to convention and the main course of soufflé-light sarees and lehengas in nostalgic rose prints and gentlemanly checks, it also serves an amuse-bouche of the androgynous menswear jacket and tailored dhoti trousers.

"There's more to come," Gupta assures, alluding to the soon-to-release looks that include easy jackets, overlays and stoles in her brand's signature checks. "When I started my career in 2009, I had no commercial obligations. So, my designs were fearless. In between, I relied more on customer feedback and sales data, and less on creative instinct. I designed for others. But this collection is purely about me, these are pieces I want to wear."