Cook up a (rain) storm

While visiting Dadarrsquos vegetable market many monsoons ago Keertida Phadke noticed a grasslike vegetable that looked like spring onions but wasnrsquot Curious she asked the vendor and learned about phodshichi bhaji or ran bhaji a wild green found in the hilly areas of Maharashtra only during monsoons Known as safed mulsi mushli karli kuli or peva it is also referred to as devkrupa bhaji a vegetable of godrsquos blessing because it is wild and not cultivated It holds a significant place in culture and traditions adding a unique charm to its culinary usesWild seasonal vegetables like takla kurdu and varieties of alu come to the city markets from Maharashtrarsquos Palghar district and are foraged by Kokni and Warli adivasi communities These greens have been popping up at weekly farmersrsquo markets in hip urban areas ldquoI did not grow up eating phodshi but now I see vendors in the Bandra farmersrsquo market selling itrdquo says Phadke ldquoItrsquos a hyperlocal and hyperseasonal green healthier to eat at the right timerdquo These wild seasonal vegetables are not just delicious but also packed with health benefits making them a musthave in your diet A trained chef from the National Gourmet Institute New York Phadke always asks the vendors how to clean cut and cook these vegetables as their knowledge is passed down through generationsFiddlehead FernPhodshichi bhaji with its herbaceous flavour can be eaten from tip to root however its white roots used in alternative medicines should be trimmed before cooking ldquoBy itself phodshichi bhaji doesnrsquot have much taste so it needs strongtasting vegetables like onion or garlic to balance it You can cook it as a sabzi make a pakora add it to dal and thalipeeth or make a stirfryrdquo she adds In the Konkan it is even added to dried fishChef Swapneel Prabhu was introduced to keerl bamboo shoot amongst other produce very early in childhood ldquoSeasonal produce was celebrated and invariably made it to our plates in the form of traditional delicaciesrdquo he says ldquoNobody at home turned their nose up at them The excitement on such days would be palpable We were encouraged to try new foods Never forced Once we tasted a particular ingredient or flavour the choice to like or reject it was left to us This was done nonchalantlymdashwithout any pontification and it happened organically We imbibed the curiosity through osmosis As far back as I can stretch my memory I canrsquot recall a single year where we havenrsquot had keerl Aammaa made it a point to cook it multiple times every season Even if that meant getting down at Dadar or Vile Parle to shop for it on her way home from work Imagine boarding a Virar local during peak hours with a bag of bamboo shoots sticking outrdquoSwapneel Prabhu Divya Uthaiah and Keertida PhadkePrabhu considers himself fortunate and grateful that his mother considered it essential and went out of her way to work around the limitations and extreme challenges of urban living just to instil appreciation for ingredients especially seemingly outlandish ones ldquoIt laid the foundation for our love affair with flavours in which Aammaa played the pivotal catalytic role of Cupidrdquo he says Mumbairsquos indigenous Warli tribe consumes bamboo shoots as a pickle or stir fry while Coorgi cuisine uses them in curries ldquoThe flavour is earthy with a crunch even when cookedrdquo says Divya Uthaiah a digital creator promoting Kodava recipesSimilarly fiddlehead ferns a bright green frond from a spiral stem are a delicacy in Coorg ldquoThey grow on the riverbanks around monsoon in my hometown and are seen in markets for only a few weeksrdquo Uthaiah says The most common recipe is therme thoppy palya fiddlehead fern fry They are foraged in the West too and in India they grow in damp areas of the Himalayan states in the North and Northeast to hilly parts of Karnataka They are cooked mainly through stirfrying which brings out their flavour similar to asparagus green beans or spinachWith the monsoonrsquos arrival these intriguing dragons emerge from underground yams shevla Prabhu describes ldquoThe fibrous stalk reveals bright saffron pollen an intricate pattern and a hollow spongy tip in colours from pale yellow to deep magenta The basal part causes severe itching and should be discarded Use latex gloves if you have sensitive skin The edible tips are spongy like mushrooms with a distinct umami flavour and mildly astringent notes Raw stalks are toxic but combined with the sour berry kakad create a medicinal meatytextured curryrdquoPhodshichi paniyaramIngredients1 cup phodshi leaves chopped12 cup moong dal23 green chillies12 inch piece of ginger3 cloves of garlic14 tsp turmeric powder1 small onion chopped15 tbsp rice flourSalt to tasteMethodSoak the moong dal for three to four hours strain and grind with green chillies ginger and garlic Avoid using water while grinding Mix in the remaining ingredients Cook in a greased paniyaram pan or fry as pakoras Serve with green chutneyHow to clean it Cut the white bottom and remove the vein at its centre Wash like you would any greensWhere to find it Dadar vegetable market Bandra farmersrsquo market Byculla marketTherme thoppu palyaIngredients1 bunch fiddlehead fern washed and chopped15 tbsp oil1 tbsp ghee12 tsp mustard seeds2 dry red chillies2 green chillies chopped1 onion chopped12 tsp chilli powder14 tsp turmeric powder2 tsp lime juice1 tbsp grated coconutSalt to tasteMethodHeat the oil and ghee in a pan Add mustard seeds and let them splutter Add dry red and green chillies chopped onion chilli powder turmeric powder and chopped fiddlehead ferns Mix well Season and cook covered for three to five minutes until the stalks are tender Add lime juice and grated coconut mix and turn off the heat Serve hot with akki rottiHow to clean it Wash it several times and remove the brown husk completely Alternatively soak it in cold water for five minutes to remove the husk and then rinse before cooking Where to find it Four bungalows market AndheriBaimbale barthadIngredients1 large bowl of cooked bamboo shoots15 tbsp oil12 tsp mustard seeds810 garlic cloves crushed34 dry red chilliesCurry leaves1 onion chopped12 tsp chilli powder14 tsp turmeric powderSalt to taste2 tsp coriander powder12 tsp lime juiceMethodHeat oil in a kadai add mustard seeds crushed garlic dry red chillies curry leaves and chopped onion when it sputters Add cooked bamboo shoots and mix thoroughly Cook until dry and add chilli powder turmeric powder coriander powder and salt Mix well Cover with a lid and cook for five to 10 minutes Finish with lime juice and serve with akki rotti and a dollop of gheeHow to clean it Break it from the root and soak in water for up to 12 hours Then change the water and soak for another 12 hours Add salt and turmeric to the water some even use soda bicarbonateWhere to find it Dadar Thane and Four bungalows market Andheri