SoBo has a new upscale vegan party place which feels like an extension of a clean eating joint that existed there before it
Glazed Ravioli
It’s 1 pm on a hot April Saturday afternoon and the restaurant we arrive at in Breach Candy is empty. It’s new and vegan, and so perhaps the word hasn’t gotten out yet. Launched at the same location where a beloved clean eating restaurant once stood, The Green Affair has retained its predecessor’s black naked ceiling, and added golden pendant lamps that complement the large frosted glass window and textured walls. The sofas and chairs are upholstered in contrasting sea green, and shades of yellow and red, which creates an elegant feel. That’s where the comparison between the two joints ends.
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Lulled by the mellow music, we order a Pomo Verte (Rs 350) — a tangy drink with pomegranate, ginger, lemongrass and ginger ale. Before it arrives, two health-conscious buddies walk in wearing their athleisure best, and call for a detox drink, after demanding to what seed will be used in the seed bread. At that moment, we realise that the place has indeed filled a gap. SoBo’s ladies who nibble on their kale, while strictly sticking to their gluten-free, grain-free, nut-free, paleo or vegan diet—need a new place to waste an afternoon away.
Salted caramel tart ice cream
Right on cue, the place starts to fill, but is not crammed yet. Spread across two floors—including an indoor and rooftop area—the restaurant intends to position itself as India’s first vegan party destination. Lunch hour may not be the best time to judge whether it will attain that title. With its neon signboards and predictable, Insta-friendly backdrops, to us it felt like a good spot for musical performances while sipping sundowners.
We are distracted by the faux bougainvillea vines that make us wonder whether they were hoisted just to make the place look ’Gram-worthy. Suddenly, our train of thought is interrupted by the sharp,familiar sound of a pressure cooker whistle.
A bit out of place, we choose to ignore it and order a mushroom cappuccino (Rs 325). The full-bodied soup, laced with froth and truffle scent with a side of bruschetta foam, is filling. The quick kick of crushed pepper stays with you after every slurp. Next, we try the glazed ravioli (R395) and love every bite of it. A melange of flavours, interplaying with textures of pickled olives, edamame, microgreens, rocket leaves, and garlic flakes, the dish is a flavour bomb.
Pommo Verte
In the mains, we choose the vegan alfredo (Rs 645)— the penne stops short of al dente and the coconut cream sauce is overpowering enough to shout “Vegan”. It put this non-vegan writer off. While we want to try the panacotta, most desserts listed on the menu aren’t available and the staff is quick to suggest an alternative: The salted caramel ice cream tart (Rs 395). It takes a while to reach us and the tart is too crisp, spoiling the show towards the end.
The brainchild of Ankit Mundra and wife Diksha, both vegan, starting a plant-based fine dining restaurant was fulfilling. Their sauces, dips, and breads are made in-house (with gluten-free and Jain options available). The menu is exhaustive with global favourites such as mock meat in tacos, burgers, shawarma, sheesh kebabs, and a Mexican-inspired burrito bowl. The world of plant-based gastronomy is largely unexplored in the city, so we are glad someone is cracking this niche segment. If only the pressure cooker whistle would pipe down.
WHERE: Hubtown Skybay, 4th Floor and Rooftop, Bhulabhai Desai Marg, Mahalaxmi(W), Breach Candy.
CALL: 8097808871
Rating : GOOD
The Green Affair didn’t know we were there. Sunday Mid-day reviews anonymously and pays for meals and drinks.
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