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How this soda shop in Girgaon has transformed but retains its old-world charm

A 95-year-old cold drink house returns as The Girgaum Kitchen, keeping alive the flavours, memories, and resilience of a neighbourhood that once fed Mumbai’s soul

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(L to R) Hiren Welling, Bharat Gothoskar and Omkar Narvekar at The Girgaun Kitchen at Khadilkar Marg, Girgaon. Pic/Shadab Khan

(L to R) Hiren Welling, Bharat Gothoskar and Omkar Narvekar at The Girgaun Kitchen at Khadilkar Marg, Girgaon. Pic/Shadab Khan

At the heart of one of the city’s oldest and layered neighbourhoods, with its narrow lanes, crumbling but striking chawls, vibrant markets, and centuries-old traditions, Girgaon (aka Girgaum) is where Mumbai’s heritage comes alive.

But change is coming. Under the Girgaon cluster development plan, many of the old buildings will soon give way to high-rises, as part of the Mumbai Metro Line 3 project that includes two new stations — Girgaon and Kalbadevi. The project promises progress, but also marks the end of an era  as familiar courtyards, shared balconies, and beloved eateries face transformation. Just before that happens, Bharat Gothoskar, founder of Khaki Tours, has teamed up with Omkar Narvekar and Hiren Welling to transform his maternal family’s 95-year-old establishment into The Girgaum Kitchen, preserving the area’s culinary heritage and continuing the Dalvi family’s legacy. 

Bharat Gothoskar sharing his family legacy with a group of Maharashtrian food enthusiasts gathered to preview the dishes that will shape its core menuBharat Gothoskar sharing his family legacy with a group of Maharashtrian food enthusiasts gathered to preview the dishes that will shape its core menu

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