Kai navu try kariye: The menu at Parsi kitchen RTI gets a makeover

On the busy junction that connects Hughes Road to Babulnath everything has changed and yet nothing has The Sir Ratan Tata Institute RTI headquarters has been standing here for 94 years selling delectable Parsi snacks through a ground floor cafeshop and shipping out daily tiffins across the city to patrons from the Parsi and Irani Zoroastrian communityFrom the traditional lunch dish dhansak to evening tea snackssuch as dal ni pori patrel bhakra to traditional desserts that include lagan nu custard ravo and sev to cutlets pies and quiches which the meatloving community is partial to the menu is testimony to RTI being the custodian of traditionally made authentic Parsi recipes that have survived decadesDar ni poriWinds of change are blowing in the kitchen that sits at the rear end of the cafe Old timers whorsquove worked its stoves for much of their lives are privy to new entrants that have made it to RTIrsquos menu ldquoThese volauvents are so small theyrsquod fit in my cavityrdquo jokes one of them her hair kept off her face with a tight scarf The deconstructed cheese celery volauvent is one of 46 new dishes that have been introduced to the Gourmet at 35 referencing the streetrsquos code number helmed by Arzan Sabawalla and Hooma BillimoriaThey work under the expert eyes of Shernaz Buhariwala and Kaiyosh Kerawala ldquoIt was a collective idea to go gourmet that got a nod from every committee memberrdquo Sabawalla tells midday ldquoIt meant stepping out of our comfort zone and going beyond the regular traditional menu which of course continues to be on offer This one is different and for the more demanding clientele After the lockdown we realised that people have grown fond of hosting house parties with lavish items on the menu When the city opened up we got queries about whether wersquod cater for themrdquoPearl Barley RissotoRTI will now offer a range of vegetarian and nonvegetarian salads mains and desserts available on preorder while also allowing some of these dishes to share shelf space with their authentic Parsi counterpartsThe newer entrants include cranberry and walnut cheese logs bocconcini cheese and cherry tomato skewers pear feta and arugula mixed salad microgreens with candied walnuts Thai green curry and chocolate cherry pudding among others ldquoThose working from home suggested that we add more gourmet items to the menu Even some of our patrons who prefer only the classics were happy to try the new items on the menu when hosting a gettogetherrdquo adds BuhariwalaPatrelThe story of reimagination involved the team working on trials for six months seeing what works not just for the Bawa clientele but their larger audience too The one thing the team had to ensure was that certain flavours had the quintessential RTI spin ldquoWe created the dishes and sent them out for trials and made changes according to feedback Even in the kitchen we sensed the initial apprehension but got over that quickly After training the staff grew confident to experiment and were excited to learn something newrdquo says KerawalaRati Patwa a senior staffer who the rest lovingly call ldquoRati auntyrdquo 75 has been with RTI for 30 years She says shersquod be delighted if everyone tried something off the gourmet menu But we ask her which dish she personally likes she says bluntly in Gujarati ldquoKai nahin nothingrdquo She clarifies that she prefers oldworld classics ldquoI like authentic Parsi food this menu isnrsquot for me but I am glad we are doing it for those who are keen to try highend eats When new staff comes in they bring with them fresh ideas and methods thatrsquos a refreshing changerdquo she addsFormerly The Landmark the space is now being rented out for parties and events with catering from RTIBeside the space that houses the takeaway counter and cafe is an area that once was rented out for parties and exhibitions This multifunctional space is where the team now hopes clients will host halfday and fullday meetings intimate events and popups with inhouse catering by the brand The wroughtiron spiral stairs up the mezzanine a large vase of heliconias on the floor and glass jars holding carnations on the table with the evening sun entering the frosted window glass makes this simple but vintage setting ideal for those looking for a classic feel to what they are hosting It subconsciously transports you to another era that is perhaps not waiting or wanting to change The team tells us that interestingly this space has almost always had culinary connections Back in the 1980s it used to house a restaurant called The LandmarkItrsquos this juxtaposition of old and new of the resolve to protect the traditional while embracing change that makes RTI relevant today Lady Navajbai Tata Ratan Tatarsquos grandmother Tata Sonsrsquo first woman director and the pioneer who launched the institute in 1928 to discourage dole and make the notsofortunate Parsis self sufficient with employment training wouldrsquove approvedCheese celery volauvent trumps lamb ragoutArzaan Sabawalla Head Chef RTI Rati Patwa a senior staffer and Hooma Billimoria HOD cake and confectionery RTI PicAshish RajeFrom a spread of the old and the new we tried the mini chicken sliders Rs 1000 for 12 pieces and loved how the patty had a smoky kick that blended well with the cheese and caramelised onion The deconstructed cheese celery volauvents Rs 660 for 12 pieces were a hit The creamy cheesy paste sat perfectly in the small hollow case of the freshly baked puff pastry ldquoThey are house partyperfect since they can be piped right before serving Most of the dishes on the menu are like thatmdasheasy to assemblerdquo says Billimoria who is particularly fond of the cheese logs ldquoWe split the milk and make the log from scratch so yoursquoll notice it has our signature tasterdquo she adds We tried the cranberry almond dill Rs 350 and agree that it didnrsquot taste like the regular cheese log That hint of homemade typical to the brand lingered on our tongueDeconstructed celery volauventWe liked the lemon cheesecake in a jar which had the perfect complementing flavours of sweet and tart The pearl barley risotto with mushroom and truffle R2040 serves 4 is Sabawallarsquos favourite Made with forest and button mushroom it didnrsquot have the overpowering taste of truffle thankfully Wouldrsquove been better if the barley had taken on some more of the flavour The flavours of lasagne lamb ragout Rs 2500 serves 8 werenrsquot too prominent either something that Sabawalla and team will need to work on while competing with other South Mumbai outposts serving simple stellar Continental fare in order to stay ahead of the game