Updated On: 07 February, 2021 08:49 AM IST | Mumbai | Nasrin Modak Siddiqi
The royal food of the Capital’s walled-city is here, and its patrons are rejoicing. But is it too sanitised for an experience of the original? We visited Karim’s to find out

(Clockwise from left) Mutton nihari, bheja curry, mutton handi, mutton barra, kheema naan and tandoori raan (centre)
The street is mildly buzzing with customers shopping at the stalls on Bandra’s Linking Road. Tucked in one of the bylanes is the city’s first franchise of the iconic Jama Masjid’s Karim’s restaurant. The logo is telling of a brand we frequent on our occasional, hurried trips, nonchalantly scheduling the day around this culinary destination. Like us, many hardcore meat-lovers do the same, even if it means braving through the narrow, crowded lanes of Purani Dilli-a world within a world. And that journey in itself becomes an integral part of the meal experience. A sensory overload inside and out of the restaurant. Outside, there are sights, smoke and an excited crowd awaiting a table. Inside, waiters hurry along with orders, as cooks stir huge pots of curries, two others basting fat on the kebabs that sizzle on long skewers. There is a certain rhythm. Like clockwork, it has been perfected over a hundred years.
Mutton seekh kebab