Experience Mayan vibes and modern bites at this new restaurant in Mumbai

On SV Road heading from Vile Parle toward Juhu a massive green tarpaulin shields the facade of a soontoopen restaurant On an commendable trafficless Monday we head to sample their offering The stonecarved exterior hints at an intriguing theme but little prepares you for the journey inside Once you step in the bustling city fades away into the depths of ancient Mesoamerican culturemdashreimagined through a contemporary fusion of flavours and storytellingMexican beans and chicken pozoleFounded by serial restaurateurs Monika Rathore and Riya Goon Kokino is yet another incave dining experience but this one features stoneclad walls adorned with glowing hieroglyphs and design elements inspired by Mayan temples These elaborate symbols central to the Mayan writing system once chronicled historical events and cultural legacies Rathore explains ldquoRiya was fascinated by cave dining and I wanted to recreate the mystique of the Mayan world through foodmdashKokino is where these visions convergerdquoOne wall embraces a caversquos raw unpolished essence while the opposite one showcases intricately finished hieroglyphsmdasha striking juxtaposition that tells a story of transformation At one end stands a wellstocked bar catering to a drinks programme crafted by mixologist Jishnu AJ Dramatic elements add to the charm dim lighting smoke billowing from cauldrons perched on pillars and live performers weaving a sense of enchantment True to the spirit of lsquohiprsquo spots the venue transitions into a buzzing bar after 10 pmCacao butterFrom dishes made with pure cacao buttermdashonce considered the lsquofood of the Godsrsquo by the Mayansmdashto handcrafted cocktails inspired by ancient rituals curiosity grows ldquoWe spent a year and a half in RampD studying codices and immersing ourselves in the Mayan way of liferdquo shares Rathore adding ldquoWhen I visited a Mayanthemed restaurant in Goa I was disappointed Apart from a sculpture symbolising the era there was nothing authentically Mayan They served Asian food too I felt it was an injustice to a cuisine so rich in historymdashpeople just arenrsquot aware of itrdquoThe Mayan and Aztec civilisations two advanced preColumbian cultures shared a cornbased diet centred around the lsquothree Sistersrsquomdashcorn beans and squashmdashalong with chilli peppers tomatoes and avocados Goon explains ldquoFor them corn wasnrsquot just foodmdashit was deeply spiritual symbolising life creation and the connection between humans and the divinerdquo Traditional Mayan dishes like tamales pozole and pibil still endure as do Aztec staples like tortillas tlacoyos atole guacamole and mixiotes The Mayans also pioneered frothy chocolate drinks the precursor to modern hot chocolate These culinary traditions continue to shape Central American and Mexican cuisine todayMayan Jungle Churros and Jaguarrsquos BiteWe begin with the creamy velvety mushroom cappuccino Rs 450 topped with goat cheese milk foam and a dusting of cinnamon hoping for a connection to Mayan and Aztec culinary traditions However neither goat cheese nor mushrooms are part of their diets as dairy products were not included in their cuisine Goon admits ldquoWersquore attempting fusion because letrsquos be honest people would eventually get bored eating one type of cuisinerdquoNext we try the provencal veg pide Rs 600mdashpopular but not from the Mayan or Aztec traditionsmdashand the grilled pear and mushroom pacircteacute with goat cheese mousse on bell pepper jam crostini R550 wasnrsquot pairing well The gambas al ajilo served with soft bread Rs 650 and the Spanish seafood paella Rs 1190mdashwith bomba rice prawns fish clams squid and edamamemdashmade us question what cuisine we were really experiencing Rice was not part of the ancient Mesoamerican diets modern Latin American cuisine influenced by Spanish colonisation now features ricebased dishes like paella and arroz con pollo which are far removed from the ancient traditionsThe only dish that felt close to authentic flavours was the Mexican beans and chicken pozole Rs 500 a hearty flavourful stewmdashbelieved to be a cure for everythingmdashthat captured the essence of traditional cuisine However while tacos were on the menu a look at the broader offerings revealed a fusion of Middle Eastern Mediterranean and African influencesmdashprompting us to wonder how this differs from the Goa Mayan restaurant serving dim sum But we digress The dessert Kokino Forest Rs 550 with churros fresh brownie bites and cacao slabs was definitely worth a mention and was a fine way to end the mealThe dining concept delivers on theatrics with spoton interiors that transport you back in time It offers excellent drinks and a cavelike atmosphere that evokes the essence of Mayan civilisations However this isnrsquot the place to be if yoursquore seeking authentic Mayan cuisineWhere KokinomdashMystic Mayan Experience Shop No 2 Ground Floor Building S Square by Survee Shidal Swami Vivekananda Road Vile Parle West