Mumbai has a new late-night eatery in Fort with kebabs, biryani and more

Itrsquos just before midnight on Saturday and we head to town on an impromptu date night to a place not crowded with bloggers which we claim to be a hidden gem yet Nur glows quietly opposite the Asiatic Library The street is hushed the city asleep but inside the warmth of fairy lights glows up an alley full of a series of handpainted wall artworks that depict scenes from a bygone Mumbai The yellow lamps and the faint hum of conversation feel like a private worldMutton Dum Biryani PICKIRTI SURVE PARADEAfter being told to expect a 45minute wait we are ushered into one of the two inside seating areas Exposed stone and brick weathered yet deliberate handpainted murals of old Bombay and teakwood arches that frame conversation rather than attention Glasspainted windows Large chandeliers and tiny trinkets on the walls Therersquos a quiet respect for imperfection mdash wabisabi in practice mdash and every material every corner hints at the care and thought poured into the spaceL Rahil Khan and Saud Javed Hussein CoFounders of Nur Cafe Fort PICKIRTI SURVE PARADEThe menu is concise and straightforward mdash featuring kebabs biryani kheema and a few select special dishes The first dish arrives Nalli Barra Rs 575 on a sizzling plate The aroma hits first mdash smoky meaty earthy The marrow has dried up rich and almost buttery melting on the tongue the meat is tender but still holds onto the bone Then Mutton Seekh Kebabs Rs 475 charred at the edges are spiced just enough to bite without overwhelming paired with pillowy Khamiri Naan Rs 70 that soaks up the smoky juices perfectlyChicken Malai Badami Tikka right Mutton Seekh Kebab PICKIRTI SURVE PARADENext Mutton Dum Biryani Rs 550 for half appears each grain is separate aromatic with saffron and whole spices concealing tender mutton that has been slowcooked to perfection The Chicken Malai Badami Rs 450 follows subtle and nutty creamy yet light before the Butter Chicken Rs 450 mdash boneless rich and luxuriously coated in tomatobutter gravy Dessert is Gur ki Sewaiyyah Rs 175 soulful but straightforward jaggery sweetness lingering like a memory Wash it down with Pallonjirsquos soda Rs 70 A ritual cup of spiced chai ties it all together Next time wersquoll try the kheema paratha and bun maska for breakfastOn our way out we meet cofounder Rahil Khan who tells us about the story of Nur that began decades ago with his father tending a modest stall on Mohammed Ali Road coaxing flavours out of slow coal fires grinding spices by hand and perfecting dum cooking long before Instagram existed ldquoThat patience and a reverence for Peshawari and Awadhi techniques reflects in every dish on the menu We wanted to bring that heritage alive not by replicating old recipes but by respecting the methods the fire and the gheerdquoCofounder Saud Javed Hussein adds ldquoFor us cooking is devotion Dum isnrsquot rushed ghee is generous spices are honest ingredients are carefully sourced meats are hormonefree and techniques echo the kitchens of Peshawar and Awadh Itrsquos food that connects the diner to history and craftrdquoPast midnight the cafeacute is still alive with lone diners old friends and families lingering over plates that feel familiar yet elevated Nur isnrsquot about trends or spectacle itrsquos about presence patience and the enduring pleasure of a wellcooked meal