As Western luxury houses scramble to reassert exclusivity post China’s tariff ripples, an older, quieter tradition of haute couture continues to shape the global red carpet from right here in Mumbai. There are over 200 ateliers and craft clusters in the city that hum with the intricate rhythm of hand embroidery, beadwork, and bespoke textile manipulation, producing some of fashion’s most expensive pieces. One such atelier, which also has its own label, is Karleo by Karan Berry and Leon Vaz. The duo, who are real life partners as well, have been running their export house in 2011, and work with over 300 craftsmen to create different crafts, in addition to providing end-to-end production solutions such as fabric sourcing, colour testing, pattern making and sewing, and even alterations for international fashion houses.

Karleo works with many names including Armani, Elie Saab and Ralph Lauren — names which the world media covers at red carpet events, without realising that several pieces are crafted in Mumbai. This year, Karleo finally had its moment when actor Simi Garewal wore their piece to celebrate the 4K restoration of Satyajit Ray’s Aranyer Din Ratri, which she starred in. Her appearance was an elegant full-circle for craftsmanship born in Mumbai’s overlooked couture ecosystem. 

Adele wears a gown by Jenny Packham at Oscars in 2013, which was produced at Chhitra Gidwani’s Mumbai workshop. Pic/Getty Images; (right) Rachel McAdams’s Marchesa dress was embroidered and stitched in Mumbai by Karleo. Pic/Getty Images