The charmed life

AdventureTour amp TasteRelaxingEducationalCultureIts 2 pm on a Sunday and Jodhpur is sleeping The last time I was here it was 1987 and I was five My father was posted here as a captain in the Indian army Those were the days of drives in threeton Army trucks to picnics in the desert Today as I pass by vast stretches dotted with shrubs listening to Lucky Ali it all comes flooding backThe pyaz ki kachori had a crisp but light exterior and flavourful filling of aloo pyaaz tamatar and imliThe longish but comfortable drive with a lunch of cheese sandwich and spicy Bikaneri namkeen ends at Narendra Bhawan in the heart of Bikaner The small town with a population of seven lakh is dusty and laidback The streets feature chaat stalls mostly frequented by children at this hour The heritage hotel base rate of R10000 taxes named after Maharaja Narendra Singh of Bikaner who lived here till his passing in 2003 is a reimagined and renovated version of his office Itrsquos not the typical hotel In fact it doesnrsquot even have a reception They want you to feel at home anywhere on the property and so there are no ldquomeal hoursrdquo Food and drinks are served as and where you like them I walk in on a photograph of myself with my father The frame is sitting on the dressing table they picked it off my Instagram I am told A genial staffer in kurtachuridar with a flowery waistcoat smiles to tell me itrsquos so that I feel I am at home The Regimental Suite was picked in a bid to have me connect with the military grandeur of the days of the Maharaja It sports warm colours and is beautifully plush I am happy that a television sits on the panel dividing the bed and living room area We need not have to choose between technology and heritage I tell myself as I sip on a gin cocktailAt dinner I am told I will be blindfolded and have to use my senses to guess what I am eating The experiment is fun and embarrassing because my spoon is mostly empty as I feed myself air The menu is fusion fare made tastier by the experience of eating it without seeing it It is the next morning though that I enjoy the food here the most It starts with the pyaaz ki kachorimdashone of the best I have hadmdashwith a crisp light exterior and flavourful aloo tomato onion imli filling A few years ago during a survey it was revealed that Bikaneris eat 12 lakh kachoris daily Well if they taste like this then no wonder The methi dana sabji and papad puri sabudana thali peeth and jalebi make up the rest of the meal All spectacular The rest of the morning goes by in food coma interspersed with some pool and spa time After a literary lunchmdashwhere the chef takes inspiration from authors Sylvia Plath and Tennyson to design a sevencourse meal I want to sleep again but I go shoppingThe infinity pool at the hotel overlooks the the small town pleasantly free of highrisesThe city market is like every small town squaremdashcrowded and colourful Check out the vibrant Bandhej sareesHere they cost as little as Rs 300 Trinket lovers will like the kundan chokersThe rooms are designed to give you a taste of the various stages in the Maharajarsquos life The Regimental Suite reflects the time he was in the ArmyIn the evening I am expecting the Darbari experience The hotel has set up a white evening near the lake frequented by deer and ducks A flute player sits under a giant peepal This is what the Maharaja did when he hunted and we seem to fit right in with a portion of hara bhara kebab and negroni The air is still and heavy with unwept rain But in the desert like in life fortunes change in a matter of minutes There is a dust storm and things start to fly The flautist plays onWe head back to the hotel as the driver braves a highway with swirling sand only to be welcomed by three beautiful golden retrievers once again adding to the homely feel of this restored property My belongings have been shifted to the India room inspired by the Maharajarsquos brush with Indiarsquos freedom struggle and is slightly more contemporary with a charkha A glass of wine is ready Dinner is Rajasthani thali Safe to say I sleep wellColourful bandhej sarees and dupattas dry in the sun in Bikaner PicGetty ImagesThe next morning I head to the Jodhpur airport disappointed about leaving a place I was getting used to The life of a Maharani suits me well Itrsquos the friendly driver who insists that I pay a visit to the Karni mata mandir Itrsquos home to 20000 rats all supposed to be the goddessrsquos reincarnated children The luxury has made me susceptible to suggestions and I head there armed with chana to feed them They are everywhere slightly deformed minding their own business Their unhurried calm unlike city rats makes me feel at peace The driver says I should make a wish and I say I wish all of us get what we desire this year Despite the storm my flight is turbulence free Maybe the rats heard meGetting thereThere are no direct flights from Mumbai to Bikaner Take one via Delhi or Jaipur or fly to Jodhpur and head to Bikaner by road Best time to visit October to March For reservations call Narendra Bhawan at 7827151151Want to hear from youWe are looking to visit and write about interesting places of stay and travel near and far If you wish to host us for a fair engaging experience review write to us atsmdmailmiddaycom