The forever kebab

For this writer who loves her glass of wine having the right snack with the drink makes for the perfect evening The usual fare includes Blue Lays paneer tikka and masala peanuts But that was until we ordered a plate of hara bhara kebab just rightly spiced at a dive bar in Kalanagar after the first lockdown was relaxed And the realisation dawned that this easily is the king of kebabs for vegetarians at leastVinod Turi who helms the kitchen at K Bhagat Tarachand says ldquoKebabs in general are a favourite appetiser for Indians Originating as a recipe in the kitchens of the Nizams of Hyderabad the hara bhara kebab is the perfect tidbit to whet the appetiterdquo A mix of palak peas and spices the veg pattie is a mainstay at most Indian eateries from the humble joint to the fivestar Chefrestaurateur Yajush Malik thinks itrsquos a good option for vegans or those who want to avoid paneer and cheesebased snacksChef Turi of iconic eatery K Bhagatchand Tarachand says that the magic lies in how the kebabs are fried PicSameer MarkandeThat being said when this writer set out on a voyage to discover the best the city had to offer it was a disappointment Most plates lacked character minus punch making the mix of spinach and peas a texture thatrsquos far from palatable Head chef at North Indian speciality restaurant Oye Kake Utsad Vinod Rana explains whyAlso ReadAn ice cream that caresChef Yajush Malik says that the hara bhara kebab is a good replacement for cheesebased snacks for vegansldquoThe spinach and green peas need to be blanched before all the ingredients are blended To balance out the moisture of the spinach most recipes use bread crumbs or corn flour If the proportions are skewed the mixture could dry out Also often we donrsquot remove all the excess water after blanching the spinach This could ruin the reciperdquo he thinksThe mediocre variety also owe their less than legendary status to the fact that they are often oily To which chef Turi says ldquoThe oil needs to be sizzling when frying the kebabs Generally speaking the higher the temperature the less the oil absorbed by the food and the crispier the result So if your oil is not hot enough your kebabs will go limp and taste greasy But if the temperature is too high they could darken on the outside and taste raw on the insiderdquo Chef Malik has another suggestion ldquoPan fry them instead of deep frying This not only preserves nutrients and the green colour but also uses less oilrdquoPair ir withChef Rana recommends you have it with chaas or lassi Chef Malik suggests a plate be had with a glass of jaljeera But home chef Anuradha Modhora says it goes best with lime soda or bourbon on the rocksEasy tips for the best KebabBy homechef Anuradha Modhora gtgtthinspUse fresh seasonal peas and fresh spinachgtgtthinspRoast the besan well but donrsquot burngtgtthinspGo easy on the spice so itrsquos fragrant but not overbearinggtgtthinspUse ingredients in balanced proportions