Enjoy monsoon over these warm and soul-satisfying soups popular across India

It feels like yesterday when we were complaining about the brutal summer and now that the rains are here the sun seems to be on a long hiatus behind the clouds The shift in weather has ignited the longing for a specific type of soul foodmdashhot tangy slurpy and flavourful And the longing is universal Mexicans eat esquites a corn soup eaten for supper when the temperatures drop because as Chef Pablo Benitez Executive Chef at Mezcalita Churchgate puts it ldquoItrsquos heart warming and comforting Also it has corn and the flavours are similar to the rainy day staple bhutta rubbed with lemon and spicesrdquoTom Kha Gai PicGetty ImagesThe soup dates back to preHispanic times and was made when the rainy season began and corn was harvested Then came the Spaniards who brought poultry to the continent leading to the creation of the meaty version of esquites we know it todayldquoThis is my favourite soup since it has different textures and flavoursmdashthe crunchiness of the grain sweetness acidity and spiciness all at the same time The mildness of mayonnaise blends perfectly with the sharpness of onion and coriander The herbs and spices that go into the dish contribute towards its delight It showcases Mexican tradition and flavours at its bestrdquo says Benitez passionatelyPablo Benitez Executive Chef at Mezcalita prepares his favourite recipemdashesquites or corn soup from Mexico PicSameer MarkandeThailand also enjoys a tropical climate much like ours and is influenced by seasonal monsoon winds and abundant rain experienced all over the country especially the mountainous regions When it pours Thais love to soothe their sinuses with a bowl of spicy tom kha gai a traditional chicken hot and sour soup dish that is a potpourri of flavours It has chicken galangal a root similar to ginger but with a citrusy dash lemongrass kaffir lime leaves lime juice birdrsquos eye chilli fish sauce and coconut milk for a creamy base Apart from chickenmdashpurists prefer chicken on bone to the boneless varietymdashthis rich soup also has mushrooms Traditionally tom kha gai is enjoyed with jasmine rice but can also be had on its own or with boiled noodles Hari Singh Negi Chef de Partie at Thai Naam in Marol says ldquoTom kha gai has a delicate balance of spicy sour and creamy flavours making it a favourite among Thai cuisine enthusiasts While its main purpose is to satiate cravings in cold weather tom kha gai soup also offers several health benefitsmdashthe combination of ingredients such as lemongrass and galangal have antiinflammatory properties while garlic ginger and lime leaves are immunityboostingmdashperfect for flu seasonrdquoHari Singh Negi and Ashish KumarCloser home in Jharkhand this season sparks a craving for rugda curry a thickish gravy made with seasonal produce A small round muddy white ball mushroom indigenous to the state Rugda or puttu as some call it grows under the soil at the base of sal trees in the humid forests around Ranchi ldquoTake a walk through the streets of Ranchi in the monsoons and rugda will be one of the many wild mushrooms sold by tribal women Foraging has become fashionable at restaurants around the world but for the tribal people from Jharkhand itrsquos a source of survivalrdquo says chef Ashish Kumar who works in Dubai with celebrity chef Vikas KhannaBecause it grows only in the rainy season foraging for rugda is a frenetic activity and it sells like gold It has a rubber like tough exterior and holds a yolklike black substance inside which gives the rugda its umami taste It has a meaty flavour similar to chicken liver and also has higher protein content than any other variety of mushrooms Steaming rugda currymdashmade with whole spices onions and slit green chilliesmdashis a hot favourite in Jharkhand And the good news is that rugda is streaming to Mumbai through several agricultural produce suppliers as well as dedicated mushrooms retailers including Maha Agro in Vakola and The Mushroom Company in Khar West ldquoJharkhandrsquos culinary history has not been documented enough and rugda is just an element of this cuisinerdquo says Kumar who is from the stateMandava Venkat Ratnam oversees the preparation of ulavacharu in specially developed vessels that he has patentedIt is been said that some of the most soulsatisfying coldfighting dishes are usually a right mix of nutrition and taste Most arenrsquot even born out of complicated preparations of exotic ingredients Their charm lies in their simplicity A fitting example is Sindhi kadhi from the Sindh region of Pakistan A runaway hit in every Sindhi household during the colder months the kadhi is has a gram flour base with vegetables ranging from tomatoes potatoes onions okra beans or drumsticksmdashthe more the merrier ldquoSindhi kadhi contains many seasonal veggies and is hence very comforting Ghee rice and piping hot Sindhi kadhi will keep you warm and make you feel at home more so on a rainy dayrdquo says Kumar Nachiket a Bengalurubased recipe creator who preserves classical Indian recipes While the traditional way to enjoy the slurpy kadhi is with rice or naan this writer has fond memories of pouring it over three slices of bread placed one on top of the other letting the bread soak it in and then eating the mixture with a spoon deftly dodging all the vegetables his mother happy that the gravy held back the nutrients from the veggiesDown south the ulavacharu is one such hearty dish Made from horse gram lentils or ulavala as it is called locally the curry from Andhra Pradesh is easy to make and heaven to savour It relies on mustard cumin and gingergarlic paste for taste and can be sipped straight from the bowl or had with rice and idli The recipe has become so popular that it is even used as meat marinade while making biryani It is one of actor Dulquer Salmanrsquos favourite ever since he tried it last year in Vijayawada and took to Instagram to share his new loveUlavacharu is irrevocably intertwined with the destiny of Mandava Venkat Ratnam a native of Vishakapatnam who started delivering readytoeat ulavacharu in the 1990s His customers loved his preparation and it became a runaway hit so much so that Ratnam shifted to Vijaywada to expand his businessToday the family runs Indira Foods a venture that has diversified its menu and delivers all over Andhra as well as to parts of Karnataka and Tamil Nadu not to mention abroad as per order Mandava also developed special cooking pots called jacketed pressure vessels that ensure the best quality taste and texture and holds the patent for them ldquoThe monsoons make you crave foods that produce heat in the body and ulavacharu is the perfect answer to that craving Besides itrsquos made of horse gram which is very high in proteinrdquo says Ratnamrsquos son Vishal MandavaRugda curryIngredients500 gm rugda30 ml mustard oil2 bay leaves10 black pepper1inch cinnamon stick2 black cardamoms10 gm red chilli powderSalt to taste2 green chillies5 gm turmeric powder10 gm cumin powder15 gm coriander powder5 gm garam masala powder150 gm onion30 gm gingergarlic pasteA few sprigs of fresh corianderMethodClean the rugda carefully removing all soil and mud Rub them on a rough texture and then wash multiple times In a double bottom or heavy pan heat half the mustard oil and saute rugda till brown Keep aside Add the rest of the mustard oil to the pan and when it smokes add the whole spices After they crackle add chopped onions and slit green chillis Sauteacute till translucent Add gingergarlic paste and cook for another four to five minutesNow add powdered spices and sauteacute for two minutes Add little water and cook further Now slip in the fried rugda salt and mix nicelyAdd hot water and cover the pot with a lid and let it cook till itrsquos soft which might take around 40 minutes on a slow flameAdjust to gravy consistency Remove the cover and add the garam masala Check seasoningmdash add a pinch of sugar if needed Pour into a bowl and garnish with a sprig of corianderEsquitesIngredients115 gm white onion20 gm garlic peeled500 gm whole corn40 gm fresh coriander 400 gm vegetable stock 15 gm chipotle sauce For plating 20 gm sour cream10 gm malai paneer5 gm mustard greens10 ml juice of a green lime20 gm edamame beans large pods MethodBoil the corn kernels with onion and garlic Add chopped coriander vegetable stock chipotle chilli pureacutee corn kernels onion and garlic In a bowl place edamame corn kernels diced paneer mustard greens dollops of sour cream Add lime juice and pour corn soup over all of it