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‘We’d find pieces of flesh stuck to the logs’

Chronicling the lives of the Doms—the funeral custodians living by Varanasi—for a new book, a journalist witnesses the scramble to salvage remnants from a smouldering pyre

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A member of the Dom community tends to the “sacred fire” at the Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi. Pics/Getty Images

A member of the Dom community tends to the “sacred fire” at the Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi. Pics/Getty Images

That day, Bhola woke up, startled. At first, his small body felt like lead—too fatigued and heavy to move—but he managed to push himself to his feet. There was no time to splash water on his face or change clothes; they had to hurry. More time at the masaan meant more money. 

“Ek tarah ka nasha bann gaya tha voh. It had become an intoxication,” Shortcut admits, when he talks about foraging for shrouds as a child. 

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