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Zardozi on jerseys

A Mumbai-based embroidery designer, who travels in ST buses in search of new experiences, and a Paris-based fashion designer, who performs cabaret, have come together to launch a collection that's more high art than high fashion

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Embroidery designer Prakash Shetty at his atelier. Pics/Shadab Khan

Embroidery designer Prakash Shetty at his atelier. Pics/Shadab Khan

While creating a collection for cabaret performer Romain Brau, with sequins, silk threads and feathers, embroidery designer Prakash Shetty realised they were birds of a feather. "We connect because we have a similar style of thinking and ideologies," says Shetty, at his atelier in Lower Parel. On email, Brau, also a fashion designer, tacks on his two bits, "Prakash is very knowledgeable, and we both care deeply about traditions. We come from two different cultures, but we love precious, secret references, and are obsessed with colour arrangement and experimentation. He's working with amazing brands in the fashion world, but he never really had the opportunity to experiment with personal stories. My own love for antique embroideries and techniques was dancing [in my head] when we met. It was obvious we had to do something together."

Over the last 18 years, Shetty has created some extraordinary patterns for some of the biggest international labels: all uncredited. His handiwork has graced the runways of Paris, New York and London, but don't carry his name. He seems to prefer that arrangement. "I began my career with Indian clients, but my sensibilities were always more western," he says. "I like experimenting with textures and colours, which doesn't really fit into traditional Indian clothing. Here, embroidery is reserved for wedding clothes or occasion wear, in which I don't get a free hand to be creative. So, I concentrated on the European market, where I'm recognised more as an artist. When I work for international brands, I sometimes even embroider the lining of the dress, because it should feel good along with looking good. I like embroidery to be three-dimensional, to be moving, to be something with which you can have a conversation." For him, each piece, like its wearer, is one of a kind. "For each piece, I'll have a story. In each design, there would be many ideas."

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