Bombay-special nasta paani

Ghee Roast Dosa

On a Sunday when Mumbai's skies opened up after a dry spell, we set out on a train from Andheri at 7.30 am, and cabbed it from Churchgate to Nariman Point. That's 28 kilometres in total, but we are not complaining. In fact, the friend accompanying us didn't require any convincing to get out of her pyjamas so early on a weekend.

Swati Snacks' Nariman Point outlet recently opened its doors for breakfast, with a special menu on offer until 10 am. The concise menu packs in a fair bit of variety. Jalebi papad and fafda (R200) are right up on the roster - it's every Gujarati's dream Sunday breakfast. The steward scribbles down that dish's name even before we have finished saying it...it's a must-have. We chase that with an oats paneer chilla (Rs 250) and ghee roast dosa with mulga podi (Rs 195).

Jalebi Fafda

For years, townies have lined up patiently outside the eatery to take jalebi-fafda home. Exclusively available for takeaway for 59 years, this is its debut on the table. Served with raw grated papaya chutney and Gujarati kadhi, the fafda are perfect. Crispy curtains of besan, they come topped with an ajwain masala mix. The jalebi, crowned with chopped almonds, was the perfect accompaniment.

The oats chilla has the masaledaar zing of the Gujju thepla - adoo (ginger), marcha (chilli), methi (fenukgreek). It comes topped with grated paneer. We dip a portion of the handkerchief-thin chilla into fresh kothmir-pudina chutney. This coriander-mint relish, like so many other chutneys made and savoured in Gujarati homes, is the touchstone for a homechef. Sometimes, it earns a moniker that includes the name of the maker, e.g. everyone raves about Bhairavi Ben's lasan-ni-chutney.

Swati's dosa is layered with mulga podi. We overhear the patrons at a table ask the staff if the podi is available for sale. Ghee-lined and crispy, without an iota of extra burn, the dosa takes a detour from Gujarat to South India.

Oats Paneer Chila

Hungry still - more in the heart than the stomach - we order a plate of nachni roadside sandwich (Rs 170). We expect veggies jammed between slices of bread, but the slices of tomato, cucumber and potato sit between two slices of a dhokla, slathered with green chutney. A smart idea to give the Bambaiyya street eat a Gujarati twist.

Our last eat before the South Indian filter coffee (Rs 125) is a plate of medu vada (Rs 165). Four in a big bowl, with sambhar and chutney, they are delish. We finish our last sip of coffee, take a bite of the banana chips that accompany it, and call it quits. On the way back by road, the construction of the Coastal Road at Haji Ali makes us wonder what the city will look like after the infrastructure overhaul. If it means a faster route to Swati for breakfast, we're waiting with our stretchy pants on.

The oat chilla comes with a homestyle coriander-mint chutney

What: Swati Snacks
At: Dalamal Tower, Free Press Journal Marg, Nariman Point
When: 8 AM to 10 AM (breakfast)
Call: 249394999
Rating : Good

Swati Snacks didn't know we were there. Sunday mid-day reviews anonymously and pays for meals