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Feni flavours: How more Indian restaurants are experimenting with Goan spirit

Recently two Mumbai restaurants introduced cocktails with Feni beyond the summer season. There have been more in Goa, who are experimenting with the Goan heritage drink like never before. Bartenders and mixologists tell us what makes them use Feni in cocktails and what has led to more people exploring with it

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In May, Hitchki introduced a ‘Feni Ne Mujhe Bulaya’ with feni, starfruit, apricot jam and apple wood smoke; The Bombay Canteen launched ‘The Duty Free’, a milk-punch that is inspired by ‘Nannari Sharbat’ in June. Photo Courtesy: Hitchki/The Bombay Canteen

In May, Hitchki introduced a ‘Feni Ne Mujhe Bulaya’ with feni, starfruit, apricot jam and apple wood smoke; The Bombay Canteen launched ‘The Duty Free’, a milk-punch that is inspired by ‘Nannari Sharbat’ in June. Photo Courtesy: Hitchki/The Bombay Canteen

Goa-based bartender Mayur Malik, who was born and brought up in the land of beaches, has many fond memories of Feni the Goan spirit from his childhood. "As a kid, I used to go with my father in the mountains to collect the cashew nuts to prepare an authentic Goan feni. The preparation technique and preservation made me so inspired that as a mixologist, I decided to try cocktails with Feni to take it forward to the world and share the love and authenticity of Goan Feni." Malik is one of many Goan bartenders who are experimenting with Feni in cocktails in Goa. Today, it is moving beyond the state.  

Just like the fabled origins of the name Feni, derived from the Konkani word 'fenn', meaning froth, thought to emerge from the fact that bubbles appear when Feni is shaken in a bottle, the use of the spirit in cocktails has been bubbling in Goa and closer home in Mumbai over the last few years. While the use in the neighbouring state is visibly much more, it is slowly creeping into cocktail menus in the island city in more ways than one. Interestingly, it is being drunk beyond the summer season, which is usually when most people are known to enjoy it.

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