Appam in a hurry

Malabar koast claims to be the first malayali restaurant in town, while that might be true, it will be a while before they can expect homesick mallus to line up outside the tiny eatery

Malabar koast claims to be the first malayali restaurant in town, while that might be true, it will be a while before they can expect homesick mallus to line up outside the tiny eatery

It's easy to miss this L-shaped eatery in Prabhadevi. The irony is that the life-size advertisements, boasting the "first-ever" status of this restaurant at its entrance are precisely what might cause you to overlook it. Inside, a large television sits to one side broadcasting a Twenty20 match.



In the other corner, sits a sombre-faced chap, who we presumed to be the cashier and a man of few words. Bright red tablecloths are draped over tables placed in front of sofas that line the left of the room, with chairs on the other side.

For "non-Mallus", the menu can be a little daunting, despite the English "translations" alongside the name of each dish. But you can always request the kind Mr Nair, who will take you through the menu, and make recommendations of his own.

They have separate menus for vegetarians and non-vegetarians. This is not the place for "idlis and dosas" those Mumbai imports of south Indian cuisine, sometimes horrifyingly referred to as "Madrasi food". To begin, we opted for the Kerakam (Rs 40), which is a coconut milk-based digestive. Tangy, with a slight hint of spice, it was a good start to the meal.

If you're looking for an introduction to Malayali cuisine, opt for the Sadhya or set meal (Rs 185 for veg), which includes rice, vegetable stew, sambhar, two vegetables, chutney, pickle and papad. We also tried the Pollichathu konju (Rs 165), jumbo prawns marinated in a green coconut-based masala. The non-vegetarians at our table informed us that the prawns hadn't been marinated well, so not recommended.

Malabar Koast might be the first Malayali restaurant in town, but it will be a while before it can claim to be the best. The appams were rubbery, the service is not fast enough and the "flavours of Kerala" might take a while to be transported.

AT 9/10 A, Mulji House, VS Marg, Prabhadevi. Call 32266262
Malabar Koast didn't know we were there.
The Guide reviews anonymously and pays for meals.

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