Neeru Kumar "doesn't have time" for fashion weeks and would rather tread the textile trail. Her love for looms has brought her global acclaim and a power-packed clientele, but the reticent designer feels "only her work should do the talking"
Neeru Kumar "doesn't have time" for fashion weeks and would rather tread the textile trail. Her love for looms has brought her global acclaim and a power-packed clientele, but the reticent designer feels "only her work should do the talking"
While an association with a celebrity is the calling card for most, veteran textile designer Neeru Kumar with a client list boasting of names like Sonia and Priyanka Gandhi, Mira Nair, Arundhati Roy, Rekha, Sheila Dikshit et al would let her 30 years of experience do the talking.
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The Delhi-based designer showcases her work in 15 museum stores across the world and has a desi presence in Delhi, Mumbai and Bangalore. 
A mother of two (a son and a daughter in early twenties), Kumar's fabrics are crafted into resplendent saris, scarves, shawls apart from bedcovers, cushion covers and wall hangings.
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Talking keenly about her "kaarigars," the designer shies away at the very mention of her high-profile patrons.
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"They believe in my artistic sensibilities and hence pick up stuff from my stores," begins the National Institute of Design, Ahmedabad alum as she settles down for a tete-a-tete. Excerpts from her tapestry tale.
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With almost 30 years in the world of weaves, doesn't it get monotonous?
It would have been, if designing was just a profession. Designing textiles is my passion. My love for fabrics, patterns and the skill of hand weaving keep me going.
How did you get interested in textile designing?
It began at a very young age. As a schoolgirl, I remember, I chose my own fabrics. I would select dresses with traditional works. My love for weaves slowly turned into a passion and I decided to pursue it professionally.
Pursuing a career as niche as textile designing must have been very challenging.
After graduating from NID, I began working with Fab India. Soon I was freelancing for some handloom units, cottage industries and several textiles related festivals in France and Russia. I, however, wanted to initiate something of my own. Around 1984 I set up my studio in Munirka. I began with two looms and a few kaarigars. The next six years involved a lot of work and I received my breakthrough in early Nineties. The black patterns woven into a textured tussar throw introduced me to the world.
Do you think the fashion industry has done justice to the handloom heritage?
It is unfortunate that most people have taken this heritage for granted. Weaves are the most exquisite form of design, as they require the maximum skill set. Can there be more exotic works than the ikkat weaves from Orissa, the Bengali kantha embroidery or the Kutchi baandhni? It's disheartening that these forms find patrons in the global market but have a limited following in our own country.
There is a surge of fashion shows these days but we are yet to see your work on the runway. Any specific reason?
I don't have time for fashion weeks. My international commitments keep me busy all through.u00a0
Any Indian designer whose work you follow closely?
I have been influenced the most by Japanese designer Chaiki Maki. We have worked together and shared each other's creative quest. And then there is Jurgen Lehl, a German designer working in Japan, who I feel has an amazing sense of design. Of the Indian lot, I don't follow most of them though Manish Arora is quite novel with his embroideries.
Do your kids seek styling tips from you?
(Laughs) At times they do. Though they appreciate my work, I don't impose my design sensibilities on them.
You have Shabana Azmi, Mira Nair, Arundhati Roy and many high profile ladies endorsing you.
I don't see this as an association with famous figures. For me, they are my customers and I try to provide them with the best I have. I do not personally design for any of them. My creations are on display and they pick up whatever suits them.
Sonia Gandhi, the most famous face in your client list, has been a regular for last couple of years. Would you tell us about your alliance with her?
Mrs Gandhi has an impeccable sense of style. Maybe, my aesthetics impressed her. That's all I would like to reveal about our association.
Sonia is always seen in saris. Would you recommend any change in her look?
She looks so elegant in saris and they suit her the most. In fact, I feel Mrs Gandhi drapes the sari better than any Indian woman does.
Would you say the same for her daughter Priyanka who, of late, has also become a fan of your creations?
(Laughs) All I would say is Priyanka is as stunning as her mother.
Visit Neeru kumar at:
New Delhi:
> 19, Santushti Shopping Complex, Race Course Road
>u00a0312, Square 1 Mall, Saket
>u00a0Shop No 322, DLF Emporio Mall,
Vasant Kunj
>u00a012, Garden of Five Senses, Said-Ul-Ajaib
Mumbai
>u00a06 SP Centre, Minoo Desai Marg, Colaba
>u00a0Shop No 4, Turning Pt In of 1st and 16th Road, Khar (W)
Bangalore
>u00a03, Mezz Floor, Embassy Classic Building, 14, Vittal Mallaya Road
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