Where’s the spunk?

Saarthi, the pure veg restaurant at lower parel, might appeal to working professionals looking for affordable vegetarian meals, but the menu could do with more chutzpah

Where's the spunk?

Saarthi, the pure veg restaurant at lower parel, might appeal to working professionals looking for affordable vegetarian meals, but the menu could do with more chutzpah

If you were a regular at Ext 202, the once-popular eatery that has now morphed into Saarthi, you would recall its tiny red and white booths with polka dotted cushions, the antique phones to one side, and the board games you could play while waiting for your order.

Special Biryani

All of that is gone, and conspicuous in its absence at Saarthi, the latest version of Ext 202, which serves Indian and Chinese cuisine, aside from select Continental dishes from the previous menu. The interiors are still done up in shades of red and white, but the booths have made way for tables and chairs. The management, which is the same, maintains that the new version of the eatery was the need of the times.

Barely a few days old, the place was already buzzing with working professionals digging into a late lunch. A helpful attendant helped us navigate the menu on which a majority of the items were "unavailable". We zeroed in on the Veg Pakoda (Rs 50) and Tandoori Salad (Rs 55) to kickstart our meal.

The Veg Pakoda was yummy and was served with a delicious sauce. The Tandoori Salad was passable and the "tandoori" aspect is still a mystery to us. To get some respite from the heat, we ordered a Special Lassi (Rs 80) which was too sour, though our attendant thoughtfully got us sugar syrup (even that didn't help). The Watermelon Juice (Rs 60) tasted bland. The Special Biryani (Rs 120) though delicious, could have been served with curry (we only got raita and papad).

Their Paneer Crispy (Rs 120) and Veg Triple Schezwan Rice (Rs 125) lived up to the spicy flavours of streetside Chinese food. Fans of Ext 202's eclectic menu can take heart, as Saarthi has maintained several popular preparations such as the Cheesy Fries Burger (Rs 90) and the Brownie Man (Rs 90), though they aren't available just yet.

All in all, Saarthi, which means charioteer in Sanskrit and refers to Lord Krishna, could do with some help in direction and focus, especially since it has famous neighbours who don't disappoint.

At New Mahalaxmi Premises, opposite Kamala Mills, Mathuradas Mills Compound, Lower Parel.
Call 24926202.
From 9.30 am to 8 pm
Saarthi didn't know we were there. The GUIDE reviews anonymously and pays for meals.