Writing a bad review is easier because the expressions of the unpleasant are much wider and everybody, except the wounded, enjoys it. But the 1965 UK chain Pizza Express’ first restaurant in India doesn’t leave any room for criticism.

If a city gets the restaurants it deserves then Mumbai has been a very good girl, of late. At Pizza Express in Apollo Bunder a dish as simple as Dough Balls (Rs 140) served with garlic butter gets us excited. It’s simple — mini balls of dough freshly baked in an oven, warm and soft in the centre, slightly crusty on the outside, perfectly salted and one of the many pleasures of dining at Pizza Express.