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The great Mumbai bazaar trail

Updated on: 07 January,2010 07:10 AM IST  | 
Fiona Fernandez |

This weekend, stay put in the city and set off to explore some of Mumbai's oldest markets that sell fascinating wares at rock-bottom prices

The great Mumbai bazaar trail

This weekend, stay put in the city and set off to explore some of Mumbai's oldest markets that sell fascinating wares at rock-bottom prices

Mumbai prided itself first, as being an important trading port, only to eventually shape up as India's city of dreams. South Mumbai was the hub of activity thanks to its proximity to the port and the railway terminus.

Mumbai's standing and prominence increased because of the constant influx of trading communities like the Bohri Muslims, Parsis and the Gujaratis. Each brought along their own unique business sense and trading expertise. From textiles, spices, metals to fresh fruit and vegetable markets, most of the original bazaars that cropped up centuries ago, still exist, though they may have taken the hit of commercialisation.
The Trip decided to stay put in the city, and tread back in time to rediscover six quaint, albeit chaotic hotspots of business and entrepreneurship, Mumbai style.

For cool Copper, Aluminium, Brass buys
At Tamba Kanta

The unbelievable shapes of aluminium utensils would make your grandmom smile. Tamba Kanta is a sea of metal delights; from tough-as-nut kitchenware to traditionally-crafted temple bells. Walk down Kalbadevi Road and Kika Street to experience old-style businesses. Established in 1911, Lallubhai Amichand Limited is one of the oldest stores in the area. They own the Elite brand of pressure cookers and like most traders in the area, their wares are manufactured in Ahmedabad; copper products are made in Moradabad. Stainless steel utensils are easy to clean; aluminum and copper are popular, though they are difficult to maintain, he says. As I leave, the owner excitedly points to a corner outside where "horse-drawn buggys once stood, waiting to ply customers and traders to their destinations."u00a0
Look out for: Ornate brass kandeels, pure aluminium vessels, matkas (water coolers) with mirror work.
How to get there: From Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus, hail a cab via Crawford Market. Get on to Kalbadevi Road (Surti Restaurant is your landmark), go straight ahead to get there.

For the most fragrant Jasmine and Marigold
At Dadar flower market
At the Dadar railway station market and Meenatai Thackeray Market on Elphinstone Road, business begins as early as 4 am when trucks and tempos bring in the flowers from Vasai, Virar, Nashik, Pune, even Bangalore. They are open till 10 pm. The bigger Dadar flower market is where the variety and fragrance get more heady, with rare varieties of Gladioli on sale at rock bottom prices. During Ganesh Chaturthi, Dassera and Diwali, the prices double, an owner says. But demand usually exceeds supply. Mumbai loves its flowers, it seems.
Look out for: Pink and yellow orchids and white Chrysanthemums.
How to get there: Get off at Dadar railway station's open bridge towards the western side. It's hard to miss the market below the flyover.

For the biggest shop fest
At crawford

It's easy to believe that the 60,200 sq. meter Crawford Market is probably where most of Mumbai shops. The bustle and old-world charm of the Indian bazaar is best seen here. Mumbai's first Municipal Commissioner Arthur Crawford's vision has served its purpose. With one large central hall and two wings, this wholesale market sells fish, poultry, fruit, vegetables, provisions and cutlery. It's unlikely that you won't stumble on a discovery while negotiating every nook and corner. A 39-feet clock tower stands atop the structure.
Look out for: Bargains in cutlery, food products, provisions and knick knacks for home and office.
How to get there: A ten-minute walk from CST. JJ flyover is your landmark.

For spicy chilies
At Mirchi galli

The sun barely touches the ground as you wind your way through this 100 year-old narrow alley. The whiff of pistachio and chilies will guide you here. Mirchi Galli doesn't boast of too many chili varieties anymore to justify its name, rues Rakesh N. Shah of Vadilal Champaklal & Co. The fourth generation scion owns one of the last standing landmarks in the lane. They sell everything from spices to sweets, namkeens and dry fruits. "In the old days, Mirchi Galli was filled with shops selling only spices and dry fruits. Now, only few shops sell the genuine stuff," he says. His dry fruits make the long trip from Afghanistan.
Look out for: Giant-sized badams, Kashmiri chilies and mind-boggling varieties of mukhwas (after-meal digestive).u00a0u00a0
How to get there: Hail a cab to Crawford Market. Take the lane to Jumma Masjid.

For the best bangle bling in town
AT CP Tank, Bhuleshwar

Chances are, you might bump into Bollywood's stylists in disguise, scouting for the flashiest bangles in these bylanes. It's Mumbai's glitter town, particularly for its chaotic churn of bangle designs. "You get bangle sets ranging from Rs 20 to Rs 2,000 made in brass, copper, iron, mixed metal (locally called casting)," claims Atul Dhanesha, fourth-generation owner of Ajanta Manufacturers. His 47 year-old shop now stocks imitation designs. United States, Malaysia, Singapore and the Gulf are their biggest export clients.
Look out for: Traditional kundan (designs inspired by Indian royal families) and polki-styled jewellery.
How to get there: From CST go via Crawford Market towards Mangaldas Market. Ask for Bhuleshwar Road.

For a look at city's largest textile hub
At Sheth Mulji Jetha market

One can easily imagine an unchanged scene from 100 years ago -- cloth traders sealing export deals, and a lucky few catching forty winks after lunch. Sheth Mulji Jetha and Mangaldas Market represent Mumbai's love affair with textiles, from plain cottons to Kela silks and polyesters. Mulji Jetha is a picture of traditional tradesmanship with bales of cotton piled up, traders lounging on white gaddas. Kutchi dialects fill the air and nobody seems to be in a hurry. Mangaldas, a few paces ahead is more chaotic, with shops selling technicoloured dupattas and sarees in dizzying shades. All at drop dead wholesale prices. Not for the couture-conscious.
Look out for: Bargains in natural and artificial fabrics. The purest cotton varieties from Ahmedabad and Surat.
How to get there: Hail a cab to Crawford Market. Cross over to the opposite side, and walk through lane leading to Jumma Masjid.




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