As Third Wave coffee spreads, cold brews seem to be stirring up a storm in Mumbai
It's a coffee with both mass-market appeal and indie credibility," is how the New York Times described cold brew, a hip and edgier alternative to its traditional hot version. As the trend catches on in the city, we speak to Rizwan Amlani, founder at Dope Coffee and Roasted Today, to understand what's brewing.
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"Cold brew was first made in Japan with the Kyoto drip [a low-drip coffee style]," Amlani tells us, a fact many have claimed, arguing that its roots can be traced to the 1600s, and indicating that the Japanese might have imbibed the method from the Dutch. The drink however, gained currency in the Asian country 30 years back, he tells us, adding, "It spread like wildfire only when Third Wave coffee roasters started experimenting in USA."
He argues that there is more than one reason why cold brews are catching on. Echoing other proponents of the drink, he tells us that one of the chief reasons for this is because it is brewed without using heat. "It is a longer procedure which takes 12 to 24 hours using either the dripping method or by steeping [where the coffee is soaked in water for a certain period of time].
As a result, in a cold brew, the acidity is much lesser," he explains. And according to some, cold brews are not only better tasting, with a nuttier, mellower and more chocolate-y flavour, but also a suitable choice for Indians. "India is a tropical country, making it problematic if you're a coffee lover. Cold brew gives you that intense flavour of coffee without being hot," he elaborates.
Rizwan Amlani
The trend is an ancillary of the Third Wave coffee movement which for Amlani, boils down to cutting exports and supporting our farmers. "They are competing with Ethiopians, Kenyans, Nicaraguans, and Costa Ricans who have been around longer, whereas we are just surfacing in the specialised coffee circuit.
The idea is to promote our own coffee and pay farmers the price that they deserve," he explains, adding, "Indian specialty cold brew has a very distinct taste and is one of the best in the world. The beans are highly complex because we're probably the only country where plantations are shade-grown, and our soil is more fertile. So, all of these factors contribute to the reason why Indian specialty coffee is going to be the next big thing in the world."
Pic/Atul Kamble
Have it neat
At this popular cafe chain, the coffee is steeped to produce a sweet, smooth and rejuvenating blend with dark chocolate and caramel notes. Some say, the best way to enjoy a cold brew, like any good drink in the world, is neat.
TIME: 9 am to 1 am
AT: Coffee by Di Bella, Turner Rd, Bandra West.
CALL: 33951510
COST: Rs 200
From the estates
Enjoy cold brew extracted from beans brought all the way from Chikmagalur's Gunggiri estate with an orange and star anise twist.
TIME: 8.30 am to 12.30 am
AT: SodaBottleOpenerWala, The Capital Building, Bandra Kurla Complex.
CALL: 40035678
COST: Rs 160
Pic/Ashish Raje
Smooth body
Sip on coffee steeped for over 21 hours at a tap house that promises a smooth-bodied and low-acidic drink that is made with a lot of care.
TIME: 12 pm to 1.30 am
AT: Crafters Tap House, Hiranandani Gardens, Powai.
CALL: 30151675
COST: Rs 140 to Rs 240
From the maestro's den
Prepared using the toddy method and steeped in cold water for over 19 hours the cold brew served at Amlani's roasters can be enjoyed in the form of lemonade or even with nitro, another trend that's beginning to catch on.
TIME: 12 pm to 1 am
AT: Roasted Toda, Flea Bazar Cafe, Lower Parel.
CALL: 7045939983
COST: Rs 200 onwards
Vietnamese twist
At this eatery, you can enjoy Vietnamese, a drink made with cold brewed coffee and condensed milk. Or you can opt for the cold brew tonic served with tonic water.
TIME: 9 am to 1 am
AT: Jamjar Diner (Bandra and Andheri).
CALL: 26415555 (Bandra)
COST: Rs 170
What is the Third Wave?
The Third Wave is a crop to cup movement that treats coffee as an artisanal good rather than a commodity. Roasters believe in the diverse range of flavours and complexity quality coffee can offer, and that try to use every means at their disposal to find a sustainable way to provide it to the public. In India, the objective is to promote local produce and support farmers.
Also try
* Try the yuzu latte, a citrusy and fizzy cold brew at this Japanese eatery.
AT: Hello Guppy, Bandra Kurla Complex.
CALL: 26534720
* Sip on the ready-to-drink cold brew, at this popular restaurant made with Koinonia Coffee's 100% Indian Arabica.
AT: Bastian, Bandra West.
CALL: 7045083714
Benefits
* Prepared without heat, cold brews are less acidic
* The flavours are more distinct
* In India, cold brews complement the hot weather
* It is easier to make and can be brewed at home
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