The new outlet of Lemon Leaf in Colaba is a vibrant space that serves spiced cocktails, familiar Asian dishes and innovative ice creams
A graffiti wall gives the space a hip vibe. Pics/Datta Kumbhar
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A graffitied wall, hanging airplanes, vintage transistors, wrought iron seating, chintz seating, painted porcelain plates on the wall...the upcoming Lemon Leaf restaurant in Colaba is a feast for the eyes.
Black Sesame and Honey, Pumpkin Pie and Beetroot Ice cream
On a rainy Saturday morning, it provided the perfect setting for food tasting as we dipped into steaming bowls of soup while watching raindrops slide down the windows. “We wanted to give it an Asian feel without the red lanterns and Chinese symbols generally associated with such restaurants,” says Pradeep Nair, Director of Operations, Sid Hospitality.
Divine Farmer mocktail
The restaurant, occupying what was once Busaba, has two sections; downstairs is the lounge area and bar, while upstairs is quieter, and resembles a drawing room with a bookshelf, side tables, potted plants and a small balcony area.
Chicken Sisig
Equal attention has been given to food. “We’ve experimented a lot with this menu so you will find familiar Asian dishes and lots of new flavours,” says Mitesh Rangras, Director of Food, Sid Hospitality.
Grilled Snapper with Sri Lankan Curry Sauce
Spice tales
Sixty per cent of the menu is dedicated to starters — baos, sushi rolls, salads, and dimsum. The focus is on food that compliments their new drinks. They are yet to secure their licence, so we focused on mocktails ('200 each) that highlighted one spice or herb.
The Art had watermelon juice muddled with egg white that gave it a light frothiness, and curry leaf that imparted a lasting, bitter aftertaste. Divine Farmer was the standout — the drink had cranberry juice, which was heated and then infused with cinnamon for three days, giving it a smoky, sweet flavour and a slight hint of spice. Sunset Symphony was a delicious marriage of orange juice with a Thai spice and basil. Popping Passion was a sweet-sour concoction of passionfruit, cranberry lemongrass and lemon. The Phi Phi Pleasure had a strong hint of kaffir lime, which worked well with the tartness of the pineapple juice.
We were told that the cocktails would be a mixture of signature drinks but with elements of molecular gastronomy. The Pepperoni-infused vodka piqued us the most.
New, but familiar
We began with the Miso Soup with Shitake Mushroom and Wakame ('190). While the ingredients excited us, the dish — a thin, muddy broth — was too salty and we couldn’t get the umame flavour from the mushrooms.
The Seared Tuna Tataki ('550) had chunky bits of soft tuna whose flavour was heightened by the accompanying light Orange Ponzu. Each mouthful of the Salmon Ceviche ('550) tasted like fresh salad — crunchy onions pairing well with the tender fish.
The Filipino dish, Sizzling Chicken Sisig ('270), usually made with pork, found a worthy substitute in chicken. The lightly spiced meat was char-grilled till tender and served with a fried egg, giving it an interesting texture and flavour. The Chicken Gyoza ('275) had a juicy stuffing and a sweet and spicy soy and chilli sauce.
The Grilled Snapper with Sri Lankan Curry Sauce ('445) tasted like a mix between a Thai curry and a Goan fish curry. The yellow sauce was light and fragrant and a delicious blend of coconut and curry leaves — we ate it with plain rice but would’ve been content to have it plain. The snapper was flaky and well-seasoned.
The innovative desserts won our vote; they were refreshing and signed off our meal on a high. The Chocolate Sushi ('250), a throwback to the now-shut Aoi in Bandra, was a fried roll of chocolate and vanilla sponge cake fried — the crunchy tempura batter adding texture to the goeey chocolate stuffing.
The Homemade Icecream sampler ('180 for three) had interesting options like Beetroot, Pumpkin Pie, Jackfruit and Dark Chocolate Sea Salt. We tasted Beetroot, Pumpkin Pie and Black Sesame and Honey. The Beetroot has us salivating over its roasted, sweet flavour and the Sesame & Honey tasted like a chikki ice cream with a strong, nutty taste. The Pumpkin Pie was a revelation — warm, spicy and sweet flavour of a pumpkin pie in one cold spoonful. We certainly gave thanks for that.
We’ve been to Lemon Leaf in Bandra and weren’t impressed. In Colaba, they seem to have ironed out these flaws, serving up simple but familiar Asian fare.
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